intermittent electrical fault

[boilermaker]

LWS66 or anyone.
Can you help?
Have a similar fault to a previous posting "press button nothing happens" no clicks buzzes or rattles, no dimming of lights etc. Have changed relay, checked solenoid, checked or by-passed all cut-out switches ie: sidestand etc usual irritating symptoms: starts twice in a row then will not start for 20mins or so. How can any manufacturer sell a bloody machine without a cheap and simple fault code reader thrown in? better still incorporate it in to the LCD display!

[DAVID THOMPSON]

the rt125 has a relay in the electrical system called relay 19 it is not big enough to do the job

see this link
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2085

it is part of the kickstand interlock and sends power to cdi box

and if it is used in the 1000 it may be the problem
i am looking for the 1000 wiring drawings ??? i think i have them
DAVE

[DAVID THOMPSON]

here is the page on fuse and relays
check all fuses and then the relays
relay 6 is a good bet just from its name
NOTE CLICK ON PICTURE THE SITE CROPS IT >>FULL DISPLAY BY CLICKING ON PICTURE

[LWS66]

[quote="boilermaker"]LWS66 or anyone.
Can you help?
Have a similar fault to a previous posting "press button nothing happens" no clicks buzzes or rattles, no dimming of lights etc. Have changed relay, checked solenoid, checked or by-passed all cut-out switches ie: sidestand etc usual irritating symptoms: starts twice in a row then will not start for 20mins or so. How can any manufacturer sell a bloody machine without a cheap and simple fault code reader thrown in? better still incorporate it in to the LCD display![/quote]

Have you checked to see if your getting power to the solenoid? (via the small wiring harness that plugs into it) Disconnect the plug and use a test light or voltage meter while pressing the start button...... You might want to pull apart the handlebar switch housing and check for voltage there. Very easily could be a broken wire/solder joint, or corrosion at that point, especially if the bike has gotten wet alot....and cause intermittent problems....These are the first areas I would check/suspect, and work upstream from there.

[boilermaker]

LWS/David Thompson
Will carry out checks as soon as it stops raining! (yes bike is usually covered and switches are regularily lubricated but this is sunny Britain)
Thank you
George Waite

[boilermaker]

LWS66/David Thompson

I have (as suggested) tracked the fault down to the starter switch. The design of which is nothing but a sad joke. I dont suppose it rains in the CAD design office of the switchgear manufacture and its a safe bet that the designer drives a nice warm, dry, car . About 40 years ago my father having watched me struggle with the vagaries of a slightly damp Lucas magneto made an observation that has stuck in my mind ever since. He observed that motorcycles would benefit from the fitting of marine electrics and offered me a Lucas marine mag that cured all my problems. I have replaced the starter switch with a marine waterproof starter button mounted in the inner fairing panel just next to the headlight. Great satisfaction was given by throwing the other joke in to the waste bin where it belonged.
Thanks lads
George Waite

[boilermaker]

lws66/rt
Oh I forgot to mention, I will be disabling every safety/idiot lock on this machine as I have done on my car. I am 62 not 16 and do not need them to go wrong, apart from anything else as an engineer I find them offensive, it smacks of someone fitting safety interlocks to a poorly designed machine as it is cheaper than a good design.

[boilermaker]

LWS66/David Thompson

Well chaps, finally pinned down the fault despite replacing the starter switch (no loss) by using old fashioned jumper cables etc, it was yet another unecessary item known as a "start repeating lock". Consigned to the bin where it belongs!
Thanks again for your help.

[boilermaker]

To all
Anyone know who makes a reasonably priced fault code reader for the SAGEM system fitted to the 1000?

[DAVID THOMPSON]

"start repeating lock"

just love electrical designers
old /5 1970 to ? bmw bikes had a part that looked at output from alternator
and made the start button not work when engine was running
it was a damn pain in the ASS in cold weather some were temp sensitive
and a pain
as most of us know not to push the start button when the motor is running
DUH!

for those with a /5 bmw in the barn
here are the details
http://pweb.jps.net/~snowbum/slash5cricket.htm

[boilermaker]

LWS66/David Thompson
For the benefit of all you poorly-served Mz owners in the New World, the replacement starter relay I have just fitted was obtained from my local small bike shop by the simple expediant of asking him "have you got one of them?" turns out to be the same as one fitted to a number of Yamaha models. Its an M50-611 made by Jideco in Japan and I think its a 55R by their numbering system. They are also stocked by the new UK MZ stockist/importer Grahams Motorcyles at a very reasonable cost (£22). It would seem that Graham is now in more of a position to deal with odd requests as he has finished transferring stock from BSA-Regal.
Thank you again for advice and help
Regards
George Waite

[LWS66]

I believe this "start repeating lock" cuts out the starter button once the engine is running, so the "old sausage fingers" don't inadvertanly hit the button and grind starting gears together causing "Armeggedon"? Seems like a well inteneded idea, maybe theres a more reliable component out there, maybe from another make? Will have a look at this interesting little bugger!! Thanks for the info

Lorin

[m4panther]

can anyone give good directions on how to disable the starter interlocks?

[DAVID THOMPSON]

which mz model

[m4panther]

Hi Dave 1000s