K&N Air Filter Fabrication For The 1000

[LWS66]

Anybody wishing that there was a K&N filter for the MZ 1000 might find this as a possible homebrewed option. You'll need an old air filter, and a K&N air filter Part#33-2087 (this fits many late 90's Chrysler V6 engined vehicles (filter is available in the US and UK, I got mine from Advance Auto Parts for about $36 as all K&N's are on sale 25% off, it would have cost $48 otherwise)

You cut (hacksaw)the sides off of the old filter so your left with just the flat plate/base, clean the old filter material off of the inside edges, and clean up and roughen the flat surface.
You take the K&N filter, cut the big sealing ring/lip off, and then cut one end off along a pleat to the length of original filter you just cut off. The width and thickness of this K&N is the same as the OEM filter so it's a perfect fit otherwise. I used black silicone to adhere it to the base, the black bonding material on the K&N is silicone based and other adhesives would'nt stick to it, but it should be fine as is, we'll see.
It's a pretty easy mod overall, might be of some value to homebrewers?

[LWS66]

Another one:

[LWS66]

Another

[tuxracer]

That looks good, you'd think it came direct from the manufacturer. Are you still running the standard ecu map or are you using a PC111 or Tuneboy map? Have you had any clutch problems with your 1000S since you changed the exhuasts and filter?

I'm going to have my SF dynoed in the next week or so just to see what it puts out as standard. After that I've got some mods in mind to see what extra power can be had for little money and this filter should help a bit

I removed the filter lid and rigged up a temporary mount for the air temp sensor and it seemed noticeably quicker. The only problem was the clutch could not handle the extra power when it hit 7k, so I've ordered some heavier 1000S springs. Once I have them installed I'll modify the filter/air box and fit a modified standard exhaust system - no cats and hopefully no baffles if all goes well. Then back to the dyno to see what the difference is and check the fuelling.

I'll let you know how I get on.

[LWS66]

Tux,

I have'nt run it yet with the filter, had to get some foam tape today for the underside of the filter where it sits on the airbox. Will ride it to work tomorrow and see what my "Butt" dyno says. The thing runs great at the moment so I don't expect any major improvement, I'm setting expectations extremely low so I can be more objective? We'll see! At least I won't need anymore special ordered oEM air filters!
To date I've changed to Denso Iridium plugs, opened up the airbox cover, sync'd the throttle bodies (they were off a little), am running Engine Ice instead of standard gycol based coolant (runs at 4 bars on the gauge vs. 5 prior to changeover, even in sweltering heat down south) changed the gearing, and have the Sebring Twister exhaust w/baffles in (with them removed it was too lean, it seemed a little flat down low, with some hesitation when whacking the throttle full bore, really could'nt feel any difference in top end power, just louder, and there was popping on deceleration) Runs great with the baffles in and there's no popping/backfiring on deceleration, and a recent plug check revealed them to be at that fine line between lean/acceptable. I've been hesitant to buy a Power Commander because I don't want to muck about with the ECU, and, more importantly, based on the fact that there's no good info on suggested settings for it with various setups, such as what I've got, I'd have to flog the thing on a dyno to dial it in, something I'm not comfortable with now, it's a pretty "stonking" setup right now. As far as the Tuneboy or other options? I don't know enough about it, there's absolutely nothing available here in the states, as far as I know. Just hesitant to dick around with electric brain stuff! And I have'nt had any problems with my clutch, other than a cramping hand after looong rides! Looking forward to reading what your findings are!

[m4panther]

Lorin That's a great looking job!!

I knew it was only a matter of time!! I'm very thankfull that I didn't have to do the research!!!!!! My filter is still realativley clean..

I have a power commander and the bike runs great without the baffles. the only issue is it does not manipulate the throttle curve below i'm going to guess here 3000 rpms??? with out the O2 sensor eliminator.

Now that you've got the K&N air filter tackled That will be my next project. I was planning to have it dynod after I changed the oil, but that will have to wait untill I destroy a good airfilter

Thanks again

[tomtom]

I see you've mentioned synching the throttle bodies . How easy or difficult to do?

[LWS66]

tomtom,

Pretty simple actually, just follow the service manual, it's thorough. All you need is any type of sync gauge, two hose/vacuum line tee's with the same diameter nipples as the hoses going from the throttle bodies to the stepper valve (3/8'') with the smaller end of the tee to match the sync gauge hose. A couple of short pieces of 3/8" hose to splice in the tee's between the t. bodies and the stepper valve and that's it. And the adjustment is simple. Just a slight turn on the easily accessable screw(s) to get the same readings and your done.

[LWS66]

[quote="tuxracer"]..........................I'm going to have my SF dynoed in the next week or so just to see what it puts out as standard................................. I'll modify the filter/air box and fit a modified standard exhaust system - no cats and hopefully no baffles if all goes well. Then back to the dyno to see what the difference is and check the fuelling.

I'll let you know how I get on.[/quote]


Did you ever do all the above? How about eliminating the catalysts in the pipes? I'm debating whether to do that myself, I'm pretty sure I'll break down and get the Power Commander and put it on the dyno then.
I just got done further modifying my airbox cover by radiusing the two holes I drilled in it and severely cutting down (pretty much gone!)the deflector "vanes" on the inside of the cover. Smoothed out all the little humps on the inside...probably overkill, but short of eliminating the cover all together, the cover is almost non-exhistant. I only run it to keep the nasty intake noise down. Not much left to do otherwise.

[tuxracer]

..........................I'm going to have my SF dynoed in the next week or so just to see what it puts out as standard................................. I'll modify the filter/air box and fit a modified standard exhaust system - no cats and hopefully no baffles if all goes well. Then back to the dyno to see what the difference is and check the fuelling.

I'll let you know how I get on.

Did you ever do all the above? How about eliminating the catalysts in the pipes? I'm debating whether to do that myself, I'm pretty sure I'll break down and get the Power Commander and put it on the dyno then.
I just got done further modifying my airbox cover by radiusing the two holes I drilled in it and severely cutting down (pretty much gone!)the deflector "vanes" on the inside of the cover. Smoothed out all the little humps on the inside...probably overkill, but short of eliminating the cover all together, the cover is almost non-exhistant. I only run it to keep the nasty intake noise down. Not much left to do otherwise.

No I'm afraid I never got everything done, I enjoyed riding the bike more than working on it

I did have it dynoed and it made 98 bhp at the back wheel in standard trim. I fitted iridium plugs, removed the airbox lid and knocked the cats out of the pipes and it made 112 bhp at the back wheel. Pretty much free power as all I spent was about £30 for heavier clutch springs and a new clutch cover gasket. Goes well in this trim and seems to run smoother and pull a lot harder, however I think a PC111 or Tuneboy setup would be the icing on the cake.

I'd love to have a new full system, PC111 and suspension upgrade done but it would cost about £1500 for that lot and I'm a bit wary of spending that sort of cash in these uncertain times - I've been made redundant twice in the last year! So I think I'll upgrade the front forks with Wilbers springs/oil and get the Pc111/Tuneboy done and leave it at that for the moment. I'm only really looking at the PC111 thing as a way to improve throttle response rather than a big performance increase, as it's pretty fast as it is. I've seen a 155mph on the clock and it was still pulling (0n a private road obviously ) so whatever the numbers it's not slow!

[LWS66]

BUMP