Pencil Coi;ls

[tomtom]

Have you checked you've got a spark by putting a plug in the ht lead and earthing against the bike. (use a pair of insulate pliers) other wise you might jump
The plugs may be fouled if you've been churning the engine over.

[GED]

Have you checked you've got a spark by putting a plug in the ht lead and earthing against the bike. (use a pair of insulate pliers) other wise you might jump
The plugs may be fouled if you've been churning the engine over.

i tried that but i wasnt getting a spark,but the trouble is the plug has to be pushed in the coil and held there ,what i mean... inside the coil it must be sprung or somthing as the plug wont sit in fully ,i will have another go tomorrow ,but the plugs are clean and new,logic tells me that theres a wire loose,but since when as logic played a part in modern bike electrics,i hate electric probs and i thought i had seen the last of them when i sold my guzzi,thanks for the reply i shall have a few beers and sleep on it

[tomtom]

Usually with the pencil coils the bottom rubber section twists off to reveal a small wound spring which locates onto the spark plug head, nothing complicated. If you can't see a spark with the plug in the coil but off the bike and grounded, try checking the fuses or nearby wiring in the area you were working on.

Lock the hammer away before you take a flakey and demolish that f*****g heap of s**t that was working okay the day before.
Seriously though i hope you get it working.

Just as an afterthought , last time i was working on my bike i let her run and it ran out of fuel and then it just wouldn't start, even with new fuel. Solved by adding wynns dry fuel as the problem was all the crap and water in the bottom of the tank had blocked the filter . The wynns dry fuel emulsified it so that it passed through the system and then ran clean.

[GED]

bugger n joy im affraid just spent 3hrs checking everything,all the wiring is ok,cleaned the connectors and the coils,fitted new plugs ,nothing ,im not getting a spark at the plugs ,and i conected my multi meter to the coil leads and was getting 0.97 volts with ignition on ,not sure how you are supposed to check the coils themselves,so now im stuck and not sure what to do,and im left with a few questions,
should i assume its the coils that have mysteriously packed in because i decided to change plugs ,i didnt drop them or anything ,so why fail ,my bikes only covered 3000k, how much are the coils from grahams ,i could spend a lot of money only to find out its not the coils,only some strange mz electrical gremlin,i hate days like these

[zedhead]

I know this might sound like the sort of thing only a dickhead would do (and I've done it myself!) but you haven't accidentally knocked the ignition switch to "off" on the right hand switchgear, have you?

Good luck

Karl

[GED]

I know this might sound like the sort of thing only a dickhead would do (and I've done it myself!) but you haven't accidentally knocked the ignition switch to "off" on the right hand switchgear, have you?

Good luck

Karl

sorry mate but no ,i did actually check that ,just in case,im afraid im stuck with problem i cant solve,first time i cant fix a prob in 24yrs biking,

[boilermaker]

Ged
Welcome to the world of modern auto electrics. The 1000 series have a number of safety interlocks built in to the electrical system starting with the side stand and progressing on to a most elusive,obscure and frustrating unit called the "repeat start safety interlock"(which I took great pleasure in by-passing, removing and destroying!) . However as your engine seems to be turning over it would not seem to be any of these little darlings. I also found that when I was attempting to by-pass the start security system the EMU was updating itself and not allowing me to sucessfully complete the by-pass. You may try powering down the system (remove battery lead) and power up again an hour later (re-boot). It helps to remember that the EMU has read the original fault (whatever it was) and has not yet acepted your repair. The real pain in the ass is that there is no visual fault code read out on the LCD display panel so some expensive kit is required to identify the problem. As I have said before on another thread covering a similar problem I do not consider it right that a manufacturer can sell a machine that does not have a fault code read out incorporated in its LCD display. To me they have sold you an incomplete machine and this kind of greedy stupidity would not be tolerated on a piece of industrial machinery. If you pm me your phone number I will try and help.
Regards
George

[GED]

oh well still no joy ,had the batt disconected for over 2hrs ,but it still wont spark,ive resinged myself to booking it into the garage i bought it from ,as you say george it will need some piece of equipment to find the fault ,and reading what you said about the autolock and god knows what else can go wrong i dont think i will ever know how to fix it ,i will let you know how i go on
ps thanks for the help

[djsbriscoe]

Hi,
According to the 1000s service manual (of which I have a pdf copy) the coil resistance measurements are as follows

Primary coil resistance: 0.6 Ω at 20 °C.
Secondary coil resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C.

This primary coil resistance should be just about measureable with a digital multimeter although a milliohmeter would be more accurate.

I just thought the information would be useful.

David.

[GED]

Hi,
According to the 1000s service manual (of which I have a pdf copy) the coil resistance measurements are as follows

Primary coil resistance: 0.6 Ω at 20 °C.
Secondary coil resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C.

This primary coil resistance should be just about measureable with a digital multimeter although a milliohmeter would be more accurate.

I just thought the information would be useful.

David.

cheers,when im back in work tomorrow im going to borrow the sparkys muti meter ,b4 i book the bike in the garage [they used to be a mz dealer],i cant and dont believe the coils have failed ,both to fail at the same time ,merely through doing a plug change,i feel george boilermaker is nearer the mark,but it begs the question what happens next time i do a service and the mood im in atm i feel like selling the bugger,should of been on a bike run today and its bank holiday next week

[DAVID THOMPSON]

bikes seem to do this when you have days off there broke parts are on back order or the weather is crap
dave

and the new electrical systems on the current crop of bikes is starting to make---
ole JOE LUCAS look like he knew what he was doing ????
dave

[boilermaker]

ged
Don't give up on it yet it is still a well made machine in a world of stuff built down to a price, by people who know the price of everything and the value of nothing.
Dave
Ah the wonderful products from Joe Lucas "prince of darkness" eh, gone around many a sharp bend in a country road relying on "after image" when the MC2 regulator had stuck! What used to amaze me was that Lucas made very good kit when it was for Marine or Aviation purposes. My preference in auto electricals in years gone by has actually been american, as some good stuff came from the Motorola/Mallory/ Autolite (or was it Prestolite) works. In fact I used to run a two stroke racer on an Evinrude magneto!

[GED]

sadly things arnt any better,today i went over everything i did previously,took airbox off bike ,coils out ,put old plugs back in cleaned coils and connectors,air box back on and tried to restart but nothing ,engine turning over ,but not firing up ,i re checked everything again all connectors wiring switches ,everything looks ok,but the bike wont start ,i there a way to check for a spark with these coils as there not the same as the usual ht lead and cap,theres also a copper coloured strip of metal running up the side,
anyhow to make matters worse i phoned 4 ex mz dealers and they could offer no help in repairing the bike ,the reason no one other than grahams has the diagnostic equipment ,which means its going to cost a fortune paying for a transporter to take the bike from lancashire to somerset and back again ,plus cost of putting it right ,jeez all i did was change plugs,im totally p****d off ,needless to say when and a big "if" it ever runs again the bike going up for sale,its a shame as the sf ticks all the boxes ,fast comfy unique handles build quality seconed to none,just a shame theres not the backup required for such a well ,if somewhat over engineered machine.

ps just a quick and big thanks to grahams for ur patience on the phone ,looks like my bikes on its way to you ,,,,,,Ged

[LWS66]

Ged,

Have you checked the sidestand switch? Tried starting w/stand up? How about the relays? Swap them around? (they're all the same) Made absolute certain the related fuses are good? Checked the handlebar switch housing? Opened it up and checked the contacts? A broken solder connection is not out of the question. I've had it happen. There's alot that can be checked that is relatively simple....and I'd bet it's something simple, based on how things turn out for me at least! Think "elementary".....and work towards complicated.

[DAVID THOMPSON]

related fuses are good?

had a lot of problems with fuses lately
and the relays are also a problem
in most every thing

tail lamp bulbs i recycle used ones from cars son takes to junk yard better quality than new
dave