1978 TS125 fork rebuild questions.

[Richard-C]

I'm hoping that the board's accumulated knowledge can help me with the rebuild of a pair of forks that have lain idle (but damp..) for 30 years.

The seals leak but the bushes feel good so after a quick glance of the Haynes book I ordered the seals and felt rings. The order of assembly isn't clear in Haynes but I thought I'd reassemble in reverse order. Well the first hurdle is that the threaded ring/oil seal holder seems to have been glued in, or it could be aged red hermatite, and trying to shift it with a hinged c-spanner and a rubber mallet has done nothing except bend in a section between the holder's cutouts. I'll try the hot air gun unless anyone has better ideas. Or is it impossible without the tool in the factory manual?

The fork tubes are a bit of a worry. I didn't think the pitting was too bad until I discovered a bit of a crater right where the forks are fully extended. I'm not sure if the old trick of filling with Araldite will work - and Araldite isn't was it used to be either! But is seems new tubes are unobtainable so I'm left looking at rechroming at £180-odd. Unless anyone knows different?

Final question: I know someone with an allegedly complete & good condition early ETZ front end in his shed - would this fit the TS? Would I have to use the ETZ yokes?

Many thanks all,
Richard

[dave47]

Hi Richard
You seem to be describing the older type of forks with 32mm tubes. I think all the ETZs used 35mm tubes. I doubt if ETZ yokes would fit a ts125 either. Its possible that yokes from a later ts125/150, for 35mm tubes would fit your bike, but get a second opinion on that.
If your bike has 35mm tubes, ignore all the above. I can see no reason why the ETZ forks would not fit, in that case, but the wheel would be slightly off centre.
Sorry not to give a more positive reply.

[breakwellmz]

I'm hoping that the board's accumulated knowledge can help me with the rebuild of a pair of forks that have lain idle (but damp..) for 30 years.

The seals leak but the bushes feel good so after a quick glance of the Haynes book I ordered the seals and felt rings. The order of assembly isn't clear in Haynes but I thought I'd reassemble in reverse order. Well the first hurdle is that the threaded ring/oil seal holder seems to have been glued in, or it could be aged red hermatite, and trying to shift it with a hinged c-spanner and a rubber mallet has done nothing except bend in a section between the holder's cutouts. I'll try the hot air gun unless anyone has better ideas. Or is it impossible without the tool in the factory manual?

The fork tubes are a bit of a worry. I didn't think the pitting was too bad until I discovered a bit of a crater right where the forks are fully extended. I'm not sure if the old trick of filling with Araldite will work - and Araldite isn't was it used to be either! But is seems new tubes are unobtainable so I'm left looking at rechroming at £180-odd. Unless anyone knows different?

Final question: I know someone with an allegedly complete & good condition early ETZ front end in his shed - would this fit the TS? Would I have to use the ETZ yokes?

Many thanks all,
Richard

If the only reason you are looking to change the forks is the corrosion pitting you`ve nothing to lose by using JB weld to sort it out unless it`s dangerously deep. With proper preparation it`s probably your best option.

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[dave47]

They do seem to be available at themzshop. Maybe elsewhere also.

EDIT: now marked out of stock.

[Gerryman Ts125]

if you wish to customise (bring your Mz into at least the twentith century) you could put most modern`ish chinese made complete trail front end onto your Ts ( or a small to medium road bike). If its a good staight one. you should get at least 10 years use before any rebuild. And it wont look daft (maybe a bit fat at the top as most are upside down) but you will have the same size of stantion, the speedo can either work from the rear sprocket as usual (0r the one that comes with the front end). But the braking will be massive inprovement. Prices range from £80 at a breakers yard. Or £ 30 from the local spares department of the daily yob.

Nearly forgot, yes the complete ETZ front end can be made to fit, with correct spacers at the top and bottom. And the braking will improve also. If you go for a brembo disc braked one, if its a drum braked one, there will be no improvment of the efficiency.

Ps. the drum braked one will slot on using you existing yolks disc braked one wont. As the disc carrier sticks out quite far. As I was going to just swop the right hand lower leg in 1987, but my local concessonier told me I also needed the top and bottom yolk and spacers, or get someone to remove the top spindle with a longer one. As I had found a Etz front wheel, spindle and disc and caliper in a breakers yard in Paisley.

[Richard-C]

Well thanks everyone for the helpful and comprehensive replies!

The S.E.Asian options sound interesting but I'll try to keep it all MZ. If I change my mind I've a early Norton Commando disc brake front end in the shed but the brake on that was feeble when it was new. It would give the rivet counters something to point out though!

I'll advertise for usable 32mm legs & if that fails I'll have to turn to here : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuhrungsrohr ... SweANgL3So as they seem to be the only supplier of new stanchions.

Thanks again - my next question will doubtless be along soon!