ETZ 250 compression ?

[mz250]

I have a 1986 ETZ 250 with 30000Ks on the clock and its seem to be very sluggish to get moving once its moving it will sit on 90ks no problem but getting of the line is a struggle .
I have just checked the compression and on the first kick i am getting 110 psi or 900kpa and after about 5 - 6 kicks it is 150psi or 1100kpa can anyone tell me if this is right . Also what else should i be looking at to try and fix the problem ?

Cheers

[sign216]

Those figures sound good. It must be something else, like the carb or the ignition circuit.
That the bike is okay once moving, but slow off the line, should be a clue. But it's one that I can't decipher.

Joe T.
Bridgewater, MA
'99 Sport Cup
'58 BMW R50

[TS2Fifty]

I think maybe the next step is to go out for a good run (20 miles or so open roads, no sitting at tickover) & switch off immediately you get back. Then pull the plug out, have a look what colour it is & go from there. It should look like strong tea with milk if the mixture's right. I'm inclined to say from the symptoms that it's running rich (black plug) but check before you lean it off any, if you make it too lean it'll run hot & maybe sieze.

If it's way off then you can move the needle up (lower notch) to enrich, or down (higher notch) to lean off. Standard notch is middle, mixture screw 1/12 turns out from lightly seated I think. HTH.

EDIT-: also, what's cold starting like? if it fires up 2nd kick or so with no cold-start and/or is harder to start when hot that would be another indication of rich running.

[mz250]

Thanks for the reply s
Cold starting is good . I turn ignition on ,turn fuel on ,pull choke lever ,them kick it once ,let go of choke lever , then kick again and 90% of the time it starts .
I have had some trouble with the charging on had to replace the Voltage regulator (with a second hand standard one ) but I still don`t think its right at the charge light stays on at idle and still has a very dim glow ( you only notice it at night ) when above 2000rpm and the battery seem to run down . I would think that this is not normal I know My first MZ never did this May be I might need on of the new type regulators
I have had it to bike shop and been told it is charging

P.S If a new style regulator would help can anyone tell where I can get one

Cheers

[manumensa]

Hello!

I suppose you clean well fuse box... wiring conections... battery charge... and you read in the multimeter less than 14 volts in the battery terminals.

In internet mz-shops you can buy a new regulator electronic, aprox. 20-30 €, I have one in my 125 and work ok.

Best regards, Manuel.

[mz250]

G`day Manuel
I have just ordered a new electronic regulator from the internet MZ shop .
So all I need to do is put the multimeter on the battery terminals and with the bike at idle( or does it need to be revved to say 2000rpm ) I should get a reading of 14 volts .

Thanks
Aaron

[mz250]

Hi all
Just checked the battery with multimeter with the bike running and I am getting 11.6 volts at idle
Is this to low ?
Cheers

[manumensa]

Hello Aaron:

I well-read one your previous post and you mount other regulator and you have the same problem, we can think that the regulators work well. Bad luck percentage, two regulators and two broken; everything can happen but I would bet that no.

Generally the electric system in MZ ETZ models don´t work 100%, but I´m happy with the "bad iron health". My bike have a long mileage and only change the regulator and the fuse box.
My opinion you lost volt. (in a crosstown traffic -semaphores- charge deficit) in dirty or "invisible" rust wiring terminals and (box) fuse charging system. For clean it I use a teeth brush and WD 40. You change all fuses for new units or light sandpaper in the fuse contact surface.

Well, this is only the distant friend opinion, I hope help you...really I can´t understand I open the refrigerator and the light on.

Best regards
Manuel