HOW MANY ML'S OF FORK FLUID

[MIAMIMZ660]

OWN A 2001 MZ660 BLACK PANTHER BAGHIRA STREET MOTO WITH 17" FRONT AND REAR TIRES. LOOKS TO HAVE THE MASTIFF FRONT FORKS, AS IT ONLY HAS THE LARGE NUT ON THE TOP OF THE FORK AND NOT THE SET SCREW AND COVER AS THE BAGHIRA. HAVE A MZ SPARE PARTS FOR BAGIRA & MASTIFF BOOK. IT SHOWS ENTIRE BREAK DOWN SCHEMATICS ,BUT DOESNT SAY THE WEIGHT OR AMOUNTS.
I WANT TO KNOW HOW MANY ML'S OF FORK OIL IS REQUIRED FOR EACH FORK LEG.
IF ANYONE CAN HELP IT WOULD BE MUCH APPRICIATED.
I'M READY TO REPACE FORK SEALS AND DUST COVERS, BUT DONT WANT TO TEAR IT DOWN UNTIL I KNOW HOW MANY ML'S.
ALSO LIKE FEEDBACK ON DIFFRENT WEIGHT OILS, IF ANYONE HAS HAD ANY EXPERIENCES
THANKS IN ADVANCE
SHAWN WELLISCH OF
HARDLY DAVID & SON INC
MIAMI, FL 33176

[OLDMTNCARVER]

Shawn,
My 01 Baghira forks are like yours.
From the MZ book page 56 "Filling amounts and driving performance"

Telescopic fork per member
Recommandation: BP Autram ATF

Baghira:
135 mm*
fork oil SAE 7.5 - 10

Mastiff:
150 mm*
fork oil SAE 7.5 - 10

* Measured from the upper edge to the fluid level.

The other questions that you have would be better answered by someone with a greater understanding of road condition, rider weight and suspension set up.

Best wishes,
Robert

[MIAMIMZ660]

Robert,
Thanks for the quick response. Not sure I understand, what you mean by " Measured from the upper edge to the fluid level"
Need to know the amount of fork fluid in Milli Lilters or Ounces that each fork legs requires to change the fork oil

[DAVID THOMPSON]

its not done the way most are my saxon tour is like that top of fork to top of fluid
backwards from every fork i have ever done
dave

may be an amount posted some where in ML but i have never found it

[OLDMTNCARVER]

David,
Yes and thank you.
I just wanted to share what the page in the MZ factory book that came with my used 01 Baghira stated word by word.
Just trying to help...
Highest Regards to all...And always my best wishes...
Robert

[OLDMTNCARVER]

If I understood how to post a picture, grrrr... I'd scan the page that I'm reading so you could see letter for letter from my owners manual. Heck, I'm about ready to drain and measure what's in my forks. NOT!
OMC

[OLDMTNCARVER]

I'd be happy to scan the page and email it as an attachment if you'd like but there is no more information in the manual and I'm shareing it word by word and letter by letter from the page literaly.
I really do wish I could help more.
OMC

[DAVID THOMPSON]

you guys want some fun there is no drain on the Saxon tour fork i can find...
so i got a piece of brake line and a sealed bottle
and some other stuff and sucked it into the bottle with a shop vacuum
took a while but worked
dave

[MIAMIMZ660]

thanks for all your help
will let you gyus know, as I will drain the other fork leg with the good seal and see how many ML's or ounces are in that one.
I have read that some people run diffrent weights as wll as diffrent amounts of fork oil in each leg due to damping and rebound, anyone have any thoughts???/

[hutchy]

Would you mind if i hyjack your post?

It's just that I'm thinking of changing the fork oil on my 03 baggy and I want to know how to drain the old oil out without stripping the forks as they are in good nick with no leaks.

The forks have the adjusters on the top with a small cross head screw next to the large nut, can I remove this screw and drain the oil from here( after removing the forks and inverting them) and can I re-fill them from here?

Any help much appreciated.......Hutchy

[OLDMTNCARVER]

Gravity is a beautiful thing!
Take a look at the other end of the forks.
OMC

[MIAMIMZ660]

FRONT FORK MARZOCCHI FOR MZ 660 E BAGHIRA / MASTIFF

Here only the hydraulic fork working features will be considered, without dealing with the
spring function, which is in each leg and plays a decisive role with respect to the fork
reactions against stresses. In order to give a better explanation on how the suspensions
work, the moving parts (halftone) are different from the parts fixed to the cycle frame; any oil
flowing or movement in the different working stages is represented by means of arrows. Each
fork leg is formed by a cartridge (1, FIG. A) with an inner pumping element (2, FIG. A)
secured to the upper plug (4, FIG. A) of the stanchion tube by means of a rod (3, FIG.A). An
adjustment knob is on the plug. This shuts the flowing area of the fluid coming from the
cartridge by means of a conical pin (5, FIG. A). The pumping element is equipped with
washers which by-pass the oil flowing.

The structural arrangement of the pumping elements is characterized by a multivalve system
which allows all the fork working parameters to be kept under control in the different use
conditions and, at the same time, allows an aimed intervention without changing the existing
configuration. This system also avoids any dangerous cavitation effect often occurring in
forks where the fluid flows through one or two critical points.

Let's see what happens in a (L.H.) COMPRESSION leg if riding on an uneven track (a, FIG.
A).
-the oil in the damper cartridge is pushed downwards by the pumping element and flows
through the 5 holes in the control cylinder without any problem. This fluid mixes with the fluid
coming from the adjustment unit in a depressurized chamber (in practice at atmospheric
pressure);
- under this condition the washers on the pumping element piston are still completely closed
and the fluid volume flowing through the adjustment pin is not important with respect to the
fluid flowing through the 5 holes;
- for this reason, the result will be a not very braked fork able to absorb the small
unevenesses of the track.

Let's see what happens in presence of some remarkable obstacles, such as a series of
bumps (b; FIG. A):
- a big part of the damper rod goes into the damper cartridge, thus leading the pumping
element to go beyond the two upper holes so that a smaller quantity of oil can flow through
the three open holes in the control cylinder.
- the oil pressure is not enough to wear down the resistance of the pumping element washers
and, at this stage, the position of the conical pin of the adjustment unit shutting the fluid
flowing through the upper valve plays a major role;
- in this way a more braking response of the fork is obtained, above all dependent upon the
smaller outlet area of the fluid and the adjustment unit position.
Now let's see what happens inside the leg during a violent compression caused by a big
obstacle (c, FIG. A):
- the pumping element unit goes beyond all the fluid outlet holes of the control piston and the
oil pressure opens the washers on the piston so that it goes into the chamber over the
pumping element which communicates with the depressurized area;
- at this point, the area where the fluid flows through the pin valve plays a major role; - the
result will be a very braked fork and this condition can be increased or decreased by means
of the adjustment unit.
In the (R.H.) REBOUND leg the foot valve (6, FIG. B) is very important. It meters the damper
cartridge filling, it is at the sliding unit end and has washers. FRONT FORK MARZOCCHI FOR MZ 660 E BAGHIRA / MASTIFF 4 Let's see what happens in a REBOUND leg (FIG. B) after a sharp compression;
- the pumping unit is returned by the spring power and the oil in the upper chamber can flow
into the lower chamber, thus wearing down the piston washers resistance;
- the oil also flows through the hole on the rod bottom. This oil flowing is adjusted by means
of the upper adjustment unit which, at this point, is all-important;
- the foot valve works under the above conditions and adds fluid taken from the
depressurized area to the chamber under the pumping element;
- besides the foot valve at the damper cartridge bottom there is a hole (7, FIG. B) which
allows a continuous communication between the two chambers.


GENERAL RULES FOR A PROPER OVERHAULING
1. After a total disassembly, always use new seals during the reassembly stage.
2. Always follow the sequence 1-2-1 when tightening two screws or nuts close one to each
other, i.e. always tighten the first screw (1) after tightening the second screw (2).
3. Use not inflammable and possibly biodegradable solvent when cleaning.
4. Always position the pumping element washers with the fin opposite to the bearing surface
on the piston.
5. Lubricate all parts in relative contact before reassembling. 6. Always grease the oil seal
lips before reassembling.
7. Use only metric wrenches and not inch wrenches. Inch wrenches could have sizes which
are similar to millimeter wrenches but could damage the screws, thus being impossible to
loosen them. FRONT FORK MARZOCCHI FOR MZ 660 E BAGHIRA / MASTIFF 5 TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
This section deals with some troubles which can occur when using this fork. Possible causes
are mentioned as well as recommendation on how to possibly solve the problem any fork
fixing.
Always read the following table before performing

TROUBLE CAUSE CURE Oil leakage from the oil seal 1. Oil seal wear 1. Change the oil seal 2. Scored stanchion tube 2. Change the tube and the
oil seal 3. Dirty seal 3. Clean or replace Foot oil leakage
1. Faulty foot seal 1. Change the seal 2. Loose foot screw 2. Tighten the screw The fork is too soft under any
adjustment conditions
1. Low oil level 1. Fill the oil level up 2. Broken spring 2. Change the spring 3. Too low oil viscosity 3. Use a different oil viscosity The fork is too hard under
any adjustment conditions 1. Too high oil level 1. Restore the oil level 2. Too high oil viscosity 2. Use a different oil viscosity The fork has no reactions
when adjustment changes
are made 1. Plug pin blocked 1. Disassemble the plug and
clean it 2. Oil containing foreign
bodies 2. Clean and change the oil 3. Foreign bodies occluding
damper valves 3. Disassemble and clean

MAINTENANCE RECOMMENDATIONS
MAGNUM fork is the result of years of experience made on the most important racing tracks.
Even though it is a high technology product, no particular maintenance is needed. Since it is
designed for a sporting use, maintenance is very easy to perform and needs no special tools.

ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
has to be done every 6000km according to the maintenance schedule, see "OPERATING
INSTRUCTIONS MZ 660E BAGHIRA I MASTIFF"; PAGE" 26.

N.B.: On muddy or sandy terrain forks should be checked after shorter periods of time (-
30%) than those shown in the above table. FRONT FORK MARZOCCHI FOR MZ 660 E BAGHIRA / MASTIFF 6 ASSEMBLY

IMPORTANT: MAGNUM fork should be assembled on the frame in compliance with the
motorcycle Manufacturer's specifications as far as the steering elements and the
wheel fastening are concerned. An improper assembly can jeopardize both rider's safety and
life.
- Assemble the stanchion tubes in the steering base and head and position them at the same
height.
- Tighten the fastening screws of the stanchion tubes on the steering base and head using a
torque of 21.5-24.5 Nm, following the above 1-2-1 procedure.
- Tighten the fastening nuts of the wheel pin on the sliders using a torque of 21.5-24.5,
following the above 1-2-1 procedure.

DISASSEMBLY (see fig. on page 35)

The reference numbers of this chapter refer to the components of the exploded view of the
fork shown on page 37.

FIG. 1
Fix the stanchion tube (19) in a vice equipped with protection jaws. By means of a 36 mm
Allen wrench unscrew the upper plug (17-17A). Be sure not to damage the O-ring (4) when
removing it. Push the stanchion tube into the slider.

FIG. 2
Stop the plug by means of the above Allen wrench and loosen the check nut (145) by means
of a 19 mm Allen wrench. Unscrew completely and remove the plug (17-17A) from the
damper rod end. Withdraw the spring (18), the spring guides (62) and the pre-load sleeve
(28) from the inside of the stanchion tube.

FIG. 3
Empty the fork leg of oil. For an easier drainage of the oil contained in the damping unit pump
up and down pushing with the damper rod (29).

WARNING: pushing the I.h. damper rod and pulling the end of the l.h. damper rod, a
pressure oil jet will come out. Aim the rod end at a container in order to avoid any damage.

FIG. 4
Vice the slider and unscrew the foot screw (40) by means of a 8 mm Allen wrench. Remove
the screw and its seal (52).
Carefully slide the stanchion tube (19) out of the slider (24-25).

OIL SEALS AND PILOT BUSHING REPLACEMENT

FIG. 5

Remove the dust seal (20) by levering with a screwdriver (be sure not to damage the inner
sealing lip). FRONT FORK MARZOCCHI FOR MZ 660 E BAGHIRA / MASTIFF 7 FIG. 6

By means of a thin screwdriver remove the stop ring (23) from the inside of the slider.

FIG. 7

When removing the oil seal (22), the inner rim should be protected with a special bushing A
(Ref. 536064GG). With a screwdriver exert a pressure under the seal in order to let it come
out.
Withdraw the upper pilot bushing retaining cup (139) from the inside.
Should the pilot bushing (56) be replaced since it is worn out, it should be removed from the
inside of the slider.
When performing these delicate removal operations, be careful not to damage the seat on
the slider.

DAMPER OVERHAUL

FIG. 8

Withdraw the damping unit (53-53A) from the stanchion tube and remove the foot pad (39).
This could be still assembled on the slider, in this case it should be removed from the inside
of the slider.
Push the foot valve (157) with your fingers into the damper body (117-117A).
Remove the stop ring (38N) by means of a screwdriver and then push the foot valve out of
the body by means of the rod.

FIG. 9

Completely unscrew the check nut (145) and remove it from the damper rod end. Withdraw
the rod and the pumping element from the damper body (117-117A).

FIG. 10 (REBOUND LEG)

Vice the damper rod using special aluminium blocks, then unscrew the piston assembly
check nut (41) of the setting unit and withdraw all components.
Carry out necessary checking or replacement operations. Reassemble following the order
shown in the illustrations.

WARNING: If the rod is viced without using the proper aluminium blocks, it can be crushed
since it is hollow.

FIG. 11 (COMPRESSION LEG)

Carry out the same operation in order to check the setting unit components as well. When
reassembling the washers (121-122), make sure that the fin is always opposite to the bearing
surface on the piston. FRONT FORK MARZOCCHI FOR MZ 660 E BAGHIRA / MASTIFF 8 REASSEMBLY (see figures on page 36)

WARNING: before reassembling all components, they should be carefully washed and dried
with compressed air. Clean the upper plug and the foot screw paying
particular attention.

FIG. 1

After performing all necessary overhaul operation, reassemble the piston-rod unit in the
damper body (117-117A).

FIG. 2

Fit the foot valve (157) and the new O-ring (86) at the body bottom (117-117A) and push it
beyond the stop ring seat.
Fit the stop ring (38N) into the body seat and push the foot valve by means of the rod until it
leans on the ring.

FIG. 3

Tighten the check nut (145) on the rod until the end of the thread is reached and reassemble
the foot pad (39) at the body lower end.
Reassemble the damping unit into the stanchion tube.

FIG. 4

Before reassembling the stanchion tube (19) into the slider (24-25), make sure that upper
pilot bushing (56) is assembled on it.
Fit the lower sliding bushing (58) into its seat on the stanchion tube.
Fit the stanchion tube (19) into the slider (24-25) and push it down to the counterboring.

FIG. 5

Screw the foot screw (40) with seal (52) and tighten at 50 Nm (36.8 ft.lb).

FIG. 6

Fit the retaining cup (139) and the oil seal (22), well lubricated, in the stanchion tube. Use the
proper fitter B (Ref. R5050) and push the oil seal into the slider down to the counterboring.
Then assembly the stop ring (23) and the dust seal (20).

FIG. 7

Pour "MARZOCCHI SAE 7.5" oil (Ref. 550009) into the stanchion tube making sure that also
ducts inside the damper are full.
Check that an air volume of

135mm (ca.580ml) for MZ 660E Baghira (Street Moto, Black Panther) or

150 mm ( ca.700ml) for MZ 660E Mastiff (Baghira HR, Street Moto HR, Black Panther HR)

is left between the top of the stanchion tube and the oil level, with the stanchion tube at its
end of. FRONT FORK MARZOCCHI FOR MZ 660 E BAGHIRA / MASTIFF 9 FIG. 8

Fit the pre-load sleeve (28) and the spring (18) with its spring guide rings (62).

Lift the rod inside the spring by means of a M6 (Ref. 5051) rod and screw the upper plug (17-
17A).

IMPORTANT: the pre-load sleeves up to 30 mm long should be assembled between the plug
and the
spring while longer pre-load sleeves should be fitted between the spring and the damping
unit.

FIG. 9

Check that the 0- ring (4) and all adjustment unit components are assembled on the plug.
Screw the plug (17-17A) on the rod until the end of the thread and tighten the check nut (145)
against the plug using a torque of 30 Nm (22.1 ft.lb.).

FIG. 10

Lift the stanchion tube and fit it on the plug making sure not to damage the 0- ring (4).
Tighten the plug on the stanchion tube using a torque of 25 Nm (18.4 ft.lb.).

ADJUSTMENT

FIG. 11

Brake during compression (I.h. leg) and rebound (r.h. leg) can be adjusted by turning the
knob (162-162A) on the top of each leg. Each adjustment "clicks" in position. In order to
change the adjustment unit position, ALWAYS start with the "completely closed" position,
which can be reached by turning clockwise the knob until it locks. Under these conditions the
maximum braking is reached during compression and rebound. Turn the knob anticlockwise
until the wished position is reached.

WARNING: Do not force the adjustment knob beyond the maximum closing and opening
position.

FIG. 12
Should either the complete compression setting unit (183) or the complete rebound setting
unit (182) be replaced, there is no need to remove all components, as specified in the
chapter "DISASSEMBLY" . It will suffice to unscrew the stud bolt from the damper rod. First
warm the stud bold in order to melt the "Loctite" used during the assembly and then vice the
damper rod using the proper aluminium blocks and unscrew the stud bolt complete with the
setting unit.
Reassemble the new setting unit on the rod spreading 0.05 g of "Loctite 638" on the thread.
Screw the
stud bolt with the setting unit and tighten it on the rod at a torque of 30 Nm (22.1 ft.lb.).