1988 ETZ 125

[dudejb46]

Good evening all, new to the group tonight, I am John

I dug my Dad's 88' etz 125 out of the lock up today after around 10-15 years being laid up to get it running for him as a little surprise.
Thankfully she is all free and not seized in anyway from the motor to the levers! Hooked up 12v and all electrics work minus the indicators.

Now here comes my first issue, she has no spark, i tried a known good plug and a fresh ht lead.
Where would you suggest i look next?
How would one test the ignition coil with a multi-meter?
Do i need the 12v supply to get a spark or will this model spark with out a good battery?
What position should the key be on to allow starting and spark?
Can I download a Manual or shall I just order a Haynes

Many questions I know but any help is welcomed greatly and more than appreciated!

Kind regards

John

[Warner20]

Hi John,
you will need a good 12v battery to get a spark, the key should be turned clockwise until it stops.
One thing to be aware of is that you are not using a resistive ht lead alongside a resistive sparkplug as this will at best give you a bike that runs terribly and at worst no spark at all, so ensure you are using the b8hs or b7hs and not br8hs.

[Puffs]

Hi John,

as Warner says, the standard ignition in these ETZ's needs the battery to be charged, otherwise you get no spark. With a charged battery you should see lights come on, the moment you switch on the ignition. Probably a red 'Charge' light and a yellow gearbox 'Neutral' indicator. The 'Charge' light extinguishes when the engine runs and charges the battery.

If you have no lights, then either you have not switched on the ignition, or you have no voltage, or a fuse is blown, or those lights are blown, or something else is wrong. The fuse box is in the same RH compartment as where the battery is.

When you have lights but no spark, check the contact breakers, and clean them to ensure good contact (bit of corrosion after 10-15y?). Gap = 0.3 - 0.35mm, advance around 2.5 - 2.8mm BTDC.

Manuals/guidelines: have a look through what member Blurredman so kindly assembled for us on ftp://blurredmanswebsite.ddns.net/Vehic ... Documents/ .

When you have the thing running, make sure it is lubricated, it's a 2-stroke.

[dudejb46]

Good morning to you both and thank you for the kind replies,
So i can report i have electrical power and all lights on minus the indicators still, i points are clean and gaped well i'm using ht cap from my personal bsa bantam so i know its not resisted, i suspect the coil is at fault as if nothing else it looks awful, can i test this before i buy one do you know?
as i said thank you both again

[Puffs]

I don't know actual resistivity values for the ETZ coil, but expect some 3-6 Ohm for the primary, and some 5-10 kOhm for the secondary. Good resistivity values are however no guarantee the coil always works (under vibration). In a bind, any old 12V automotive coil should work.

First pull off the condenser which is in parallel to the breakers, that too is a plausible cause. The ignition should work without condenser, just with much stronger sparking at the contact breakers (causing burn-in, you need the condenser to prevent that).

[dudejb46]

Hi guys little update,
NEW:
coil
lead
plug
un-resisted cap
battery (all electrics fine)

points gap bang on......

NO SPARK dont want to give in and send to a garage id like to do this on my own for my old man.

any ideas

thanks in advance
john

[DAVID THOMPSON]

check this

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=9310&start=15#p48139