MZ/MuZ Riders

Just trying to get a consensus here. I tried lubing up with grease before
(think I used wheel bearing grease) and it wound up slung all over the
front and rear covers. Since then, Ive switched off to just peeling back
the boots and hosing it down with chain lube. Is this okay? I dont see
why it wouldn't be. But if there is an easier way, Id like to know.

Thanks

Ryan

i use spray lube on mine yes its a pain..
the covered chain is nice
but i feel it gets the chain ignored by a lot of people
i spray mine once a month and before any long trips
and take it apart and clean it all good in the winter
dave

note i have 3 bikes so the Saxon TOUR does not get a lot of miles

95SaxonTour wrote:Just trying to get a consensus here. I tried lubing up with grease before
(think I used wheel bearing grease) and it wound up slung all over the
front and rear covers. Since then, Ive switched off to just peeling back
the boots and hosing it down with chain lube. Is this okay? I dont see
why it wouldn't be. But if there is an easier way, Id like to know.

Thanks

Ryan

I tried chain lube on the ETZ and found the chain was sawing its way through the covers.....asked Burwins and they said grease every time, I use Silkolene red grease (general purpose workshop grease) and has been fine since (1200 miles or so). Mind you, maybe one of the heavier waxy chain lubes would be better than the stuff i used?!
HTH
Simon

I use lithium grease liberally as recommended in the MZ manual and the Rotax manual. Lucas Red in my case.

comanche91 wrote:I use lithium grease liberally as recommended in the MZ manual and the Rotax manual. Lucas Red in my case.

Well communist bikes SHOULD use red grease..........stands to reason doesn't it?!

thanks for the help..

I may try the lithium grease and see how that works out. I have a xeroxed copy
of the official MZ service manual in front of me, It says "chain lubricant or spray."
I should have just looked in there, duh..

As I was looking, I see that the chain in the pictures has a clip type master link
(as does the chain that I have now) Is it advised to use a rivet type on this bike?

Ive had masterlinks snap on other bikes and on one occasion the chain knocked
a nice hole in the casing. I patched that one up with a beer can and JB weld. I
ran that bike for the rest of the season on that fix! Good fix for a 79 Kawasaki
not a good fix for an MZ.

The probem is that I was informed that there is a 1 in 10 chance that you'll
find rivet type that fits due to various manufacturer widths of the plates. Any
suggestions?

Im thinking it will be okay considering the chain tubes will keep the chain from
doing a bullwhip impersonation on the casing if it comes apart.

Ryan

Spitfiregoggles wrote:Well communist bikes SHOULD use red grease..........stands to reason doesn't it?!

Lol. Yes it does. I've spoken to Fred Rogers in the UK a few times on the telly, who's opinion I respect very much. He enthusiastically recommended lithium grease, even shouted it on the phone.

95SaxonTour wrote:As I was looking, I see that the chain in the pictures has a clip type master link (as does the chain that I have now) Is it advised to use a rivet type on this bike?

Speaking for my Silver Star, I replaced the original chain with a new OEM chain. Both were 102 link Renolds 0-ring chains with a clip master link. So I'm satisfied with what the factory did.

Most manufacturers these days seem to recommend a riveted chain link rather than a snap-link, at least for the larger (>250cc or so) machines; certainly my local multi franchise motorcycle emporium looked askance at the very idea of using a snap-link on my XT600E! However a few years back when I dropped in at a KTM dealership I remarked to the guy in the shop that the then new 950 V-twin had a snap-link on its drive chain, his answer was IIRC that KTM prefer them due to better field maintainability (removal for changing, cleaning etc.) OK I know that KTMs are more dirt bikes and maybe it wouldn't be such a good idea on (say) a GSXR1000 with 150+bhp but surely on a fairly low-powered machine a properly fitted snap-link may be safer than a badly fitted rivet link?!

i think it has to due with some of today's riders
my bikes are virgins
never wheeled
never stoppied
never back tire smoked
so i could probably get by with a leather belt from a 1910 Indian or hd
regular link should do fine ..
unless you are good at breaking things with a rubber mallet

yes my pet peeve is people that abuse nice toys they don't deserve
dave

MZ Country. Here's what I do. Sharpen up a wheel spoke, ease it under the rubber boot at the top front, then feed the tiny plastic tube from a can of *sticky* chain lube alongside the spoke. Start the bike up on the centre-stand, engage low gear and spray away. 35,000ks so far, and no chain adjustment. Disclaimer...I ride like a Nana, and it makes a bit of a mess.

It really doesn't matter, as the important thing about chain maintenance is NEVER run it dry.
Modern o-ring chains allow more time between servicing but are much more difficult to lube properly. They also reduce available power.
I've been using chainsaw bar oil, little and often, with good results. It's cheap and sticky. Just run down to your nearest fishing hole, catch a sperm whale, and you'll have enough oil for a lifetime of motorcycling. Haha

Last time I spoke to Fred he thought that the spray lube seems to be involved whenever there are cracked gaitors. It woudl be interesting to see if any of the people who use spray grease have issues with their gaitors cracking.

Ta,

Had cracked gaitors on Emzie when I bought her 4 years ago. I find them ideal to squirt chain lube through onto the chain!

By the way:
I just reproduced the chain guard rubbers for Rotax models.
It should be available in about 2 weeks...
I case someone needs them