Newbie in Colorado

[ROMOMOTO]

Hi folks - I have just joined this forum. I've been riding and wrenching for many years and on many bikes, but am new to MZ and the Rotax belt-drive single.

I have a 500 Saxon Country and need to tear the engine down, and would like some preliminary advice and tips from those who are familiar with this engine.
Here's my issue: I've heard for years about the "bulletproof" Rotax single, but this one has swallowed a bullet of some kind. I sold the bike to a friend, who found disturbing chunks of steel in the oil when he drained it, as well as lots of filings on the magnetic drain plug. So I bought the bike back from him and need to find out what broke! It ran fine without disturbing noises when he drained the oil, so I'm puzzled. But obviously I need to get to the bottom of it before running it again.

I've pulled the engine and removed the top end, which looks very good inside. There are chunks of steel in the external oil lines.
Now I need to split the cases, and I'm hoping to find something broken that isn't so expensive I'll be tempted to ditch the project and either turn the bike into a lawn ornament or buy a used engine somewhere.
So here's my preliminary question: before I invest in some special tools that I won't have any use for on other projects, is there a way to split the cases without special tools? For instance, can I pull the clutch etc. from the left side and remove the left crankcase half to see what's going on in there with standard shop tools? Or do I need to buy a flywheel puller and/or other special tools to get access to split cases?

If the internal damage is not too extensive and seems worthwhile fixing, I can easily justify buying some special tools to get the job done, but I'd feel pretty dumb making that investment just to end up with a pile of broken parts and repair costs I can't justify, if you know what I mean.

Thanks for your patience; any advice is welcome.
Romomoto

[Windmill]

Hi Rom, can't help with your question but welcome to the Forum Sure someone will be along who is familiar with these though.

Good luck with it, hope it will be possible to avoid the lawn ornament option

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I've not had the Rotax engine apart, but it has a reputation for simplicity and field serviceability.

Do you have a repair manual? You can find it here: http://tinyurl.com/b2zjmm9

carter
New York USA

[ROMOMOTO]

Thanks, Windmill and Carter. As of this afternoon I've discovered the issue: a broken clutch cable > loose ferrule bouncing around in the clutch chamber and causing bits of alloy from the clutch cover and steel from the clutch basket to drop onto the sump screen. My plan is to clean the internals thoroughly, button it all up and go for the gusto.
Life is good!

Romomoto

[Windmill]

Great result , no doubt you will but make sure you drain & change oil etc very frequently to start with. I'd warm it up with clean oil for a short while & drain it before riding it. Wonder if you could introduce a magnet somewhere to pick up any stray steel bits? Sure you know all that anyway though

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There is a magnet on the sump drain plug, shown on this picture reposing on the footrest.

I have added a magnet, shown in the picture adhered to the inner (left) side of the filter. Seems to fit fine in this position.

The magnet is Motion Pro part number 11-0063. The filter I'm using is Bikemaster 17-1631.


carter
New York USA

[ROMOMOTO]

Hey Windmill and Carter - thanks for your input. Yeah, I'll be doing a couple of oil changes in rapid succession! I like the idea of the magnet attached to the oil filter too.
There was precious little metal in the oil when it was drained, some of aluminum (from the casing), some chunks of steel (from edges of clutch plates that got in the way of the bouncing ferrule) and some filings (from the clutch basket) that were stuck to the magnet on the drain plug. The mesh screen held the chunks and the filter itself showed no signs of metal.

I really do feel like I dodged a bullet, and my faith in that "bulletproof" Rotax engine has been restored.
Bob