Rear chain adusters

[keithcross]

Hi all

Had a small problem today. Went to adjust the rear chain ad one f the adjuster bolts sheared off. I have had problems with these befrore and replaced them.
Might be a good idea to emove these bolts every know again to clean the threads and grease them up a bit.

Keith

[cat]

Hi all

Had a small problem today. Went to adjust the rear chain ad one f the adjuster bolts sheared off. I have had problems with these befrore and replaced them.
Might be a good idea to emove these bolts every know again to clean the threads and grease them up a bit.

Keith

Mine were a bit ..tarnished, but when I was buying ss fasteners I thought they'd better stay HT, but I think I got the wrong size - I still haven't checked if they're 6mm or 8mm. They're not something you can replace with Allens, obviously.
Yours have obviously taken a beating from salt and so on.

[keithcross]

Cat

Your right about the salt etc. My bike gets used for commuting in all weathers except for when there is ice or snow on the road. Still lots of salt though.
The bolts are 8mm course (1mm pitch I think) BTW.

Keith

[cat]

Cat
The bolts are 8mm course (1mm pitch I think) BTW.
Keith

They'd be 1.25, I think.
I've just spent hours going through Pro-Bolt (UK and SA) lists and trying to sort things out.

If I had unlimited funds (hah-hah) it would all be good, but trying to prioritise, and ..just deal with the ..mess of websites out there ..well, I've been here all night.

Anyway, - now that I'm thinking of it after no sleep for ..something more than 24 hours - they can be stainless; you don't need the tensile strength there, they just butt against the axle - the pressure is the other way.

PS: I wish I'd known, I'd have asked you to measure it. I think they're 55mm.
I want to order 2 Uni breathers from denniskirk (because the ones that were sent ordinary airmail on Jan2 have never arrived) and I was wondering whether or not to get a 45 tooth rear sprocket at the same time (because it probably wouldn't add much to the shipping cost; it's always worth getting as many things as possible at the same time) ...but I have a feeling that the chain wouldn't be long enough, that the adjusters are pretty far in already.

[keithcross]

Cat

You are right, just checked and the tap I used to re tap the thread in the swinging arm is M8 x 1.25 pitch. As for bolt length, its not to important as long as its long enough, the thread goes all the way through the swinging arm end palte.
BTW I wouldent recommend stainless steel as aluminium and stainless are quite a bit apart on the galvanic scale. his means that if moisture and a few imputies get into the threads, it will act like a small battery and corrode the swinging arm.
See this site for further explination.

http://www.roofhelp.com/galvanicscale.htm

I dont like stainless as it has so many negitive properties. Its not normally a tensile material (I have used hi tensile stainless steel bolts in the past, $6 for a M8x35 bolt), its attacked by chlorine (common salt for example) and it react badley with aluminium. JMHO though.
This problem caused Honda a lot of problems with early (ally rims and steel spokes) comstar wheels.
See this site for more inforamtion:
http://www.mcnallyinstitute.com/04-html/4-1.html

Keith

[cat]

I think 55mm is long enough - if it's not - if it's 5mm short, it just means you don't use a stretched chain that long.

The ss.. and aluminium...that takes you back to the grease or anti-seize again. That's why I took my friend's advice and went and bought some expensive Loctite aluminium anti-seize, just for the spark plug; I could've just carried on using the good old Copperslip, but...what the hell. And it's weird, it's like a dry aluminium paste - the stick type. Not at all like Copperslip.

I vaguely remember hearing about the comstar wheel problem. Wasn't that what they had on the...Hawk - what was sold as Hawk in the USA. I remember they were about 80% of the despatch bikes in the 80s.

PS'ing our msgs.
Well, you know why..what it's good for. The corrosive resistance...you get the ordinary 308 and then the 318 is the more chlorine/corrosion resistant. The 318 doesn't cost much more but almost all of them, the sizes, were 'ex-stock', would have had to be ordered from the UK, and that was more than I could have handled, it was enough of a mission as it was.
The fasteners on the MZ are not good. The typical passivated zinc the Japs use is better, but it still corrodes in conditions like ours. KTM seems to use better stuff. And Husky - look at close-ups of the new Huskys. Those nice dished-head bolts.

[keithcross]

The ally/steel comstars were fitted to many mid to late 70's hondas, from the 125 to 750 models. Later wheels were all aluminium.
As for the steel veres ali debate, spark plugs and most botls fitted to the MZ as standard are passivated zinc or cadnium plated. This stops the probem, so no need to worry to much about it. Its only when other materials are used the problem occurs.

Keith

[cat]

That YZ/cad plating didn't stand up to 2 years of standing around in showrooms and garages or whatever on the South Coast here. nothing would, probably.

[keithcross]

Didnt have that problem with mine. Ordered the bike and had to wait 5 weeks for it tobe put together and delivered to the dealer, so all plating was good when I got the bike
Dont see me having a problem with spark plugs as they are replaced regularly, at least twice a year for me.

Keith