Baghira newbie...

[Malcvtr]

It went in the post this morning, Jon, with "Jon" as the name

Decided I might ditch the hacked exhaust this morning. I could get it welded up but there's one on eBay at the moment for £50... Or, I could go crazy and get one of those GPR exhausts which are advertised on eBay... for £209, including link pipe.

It wasn't even attached here. And couldn't be without realigning everything, sorting out the mid-section leak, etc.

[homebrew123]

Thanks for posting the fasteners, they will come in handy.
The exhaust can be Tig welded back together no problem, but you will have to assemble on the bike in the correct position etc and bolt up fairly tight, and have it tacked in the right place and then remove to Tig up properly. If you have a normal Mig welding set, you would still be able to turn that fairly low and tack the pieces back together, then you can remove the exhaust and take it to someone that uses Tig on stainless steel and get them to stitch it up all the way round. If you do, just remember to put as many small tacks as you can on the pieces, at least 4 at 90 degrees to each other, or when he welds it properly it will pull out of alignment, and won't fit back on the bike. I have a BSM Future, road legal with the e3 or e4 mark, to signify that it complies with legislation in Europe. it does make it slightly throatier than standard, but not enough to annoy your neighbours if you have any, but it dies have one slight dint in the can. It is stainless steel, and but a lot lighter than the monstrous original. I did want £100 for it, but you could have it for £85 plus postage if you are interested. Just a thought.

Jon

[Malcvtr]

Hi Jon. Yes, I'll have the exhaust off you, mate. Thanks very much indeed. I can pay you by PayPal or bank transfer, whichever you prefer. I'm going to be away from Wednesday until Sunday, just so you know. I'll PM you my address.

I've never welded anything in my life, despite the fact that my dad was a welder in Portsmouth dockyard for 40-odd years! Crazy that I never asked him to teach me...

Had a bit of a nightmare this evening. I thought I'd do the fork seals. Got the left one off and could not get the seal out. It has been in there for 13 years I guess and didn't fancy coming out. After several failed attempts, I took to the heat gun. No joy. WD40 left to do its work for 20 minutes. No joy. Another go with the heat gun. Stuck solid. So I took a drift and gently tapped it down all the way round, then tried prying it out again. Ping! Jeez. At last. The state of the fork leg seal surfaces was not good. All back on the bike now. Hopefully the right leg will go easier.

Cleaned up as good as I could

[homebrew123]

They are always corroded like that, did you give it a gentle clean with a bit of fine wet and dry or similar to smooth it up a bit? And always put plenty of the rubber grease normally supplied with the seals around it, and the seal lips when you assemble. I can see the top guide bush in the picture, and you can tell it has done a very low mileage and no off road work, the Teflon/PTFE coating on the surface of the bush looks perfect, be careful not to damage it, as it scrapes off very easily. The fork bushes both slide on the stanchion and guide in the top of the leg are not obtainable any more, so be very careful with them. I am trying to rebuild a set at the moment, and I can't source any bushes from anywhere, not even old stock.
When do you want to send the money for the exhaust? My email is: j.baldwin119@btinternet.com
If you send it friends and family then there will be no fees, and don't put you address on the payment as a note, they will presume if we are already friends, which we are anyway, that I will know the details, you can PM me the address on here, or email separately.
The postage should be about a tenner, I may have to unbolt the silencer can from the link pipe to keep the size down for posting, and you may have to put some gasket sealant on the join to reseal it, something like high temperature Hylomar Blue (originally made for Rolls Royce jet engines) and I will try and send it by UPS, who are very good and deliver next working day. So if you send me £95 that should cover everything.
Thanks Jon

[homebrew123]

Sent a PM I think we must have crossed with the post and your PM. £100 will do fine, and that will give me some extra for decent bubble wrap etc. I have just looked at the time of your PM, and no they didn't cross, I just hadn't noticed that you had sent the PM, sorry about that, I don't find this forum very easy to see what is new and what is old, and there is no notification, for me at least, of any new message or post relating to something already commented on by myself.

Many thanks.
Jon

[Malcvtr]

PayPal friends and family just done, so hopefully it will go through OK.
I cleaned the surfaces with Solvol Autosol and a dremel soft pad. I didn’t have the guts to use wet and dry Next time, maybe... I put plenty if the rubber grease all over the seal, so hopefully all will be good.
Thanks again for all the help and advice Jon. It’s been tremendous.
Cheers.

[Zedthou]

This is the set up for the early seat/panel/tank fixing, this is one that I made up out of a furniture fixing m6 short sleeve nut and an aluminium large load spreading washer approx 25mm OD, 4-6mm thick with an m8 hole in the middle and a countersink, but if you can find them, the original sort are a similar size with a squared recess for the head not a countersink, but to be honest the ones I use work just as good if not better than the originals. It was only the first Baghiras and Mastiffs that were made that had this set up, and the fuel tanks are normally a strange green colour not black like the later ones, also these tanks were not made by Acerbis, unlike the later ones that are marked Acerbis underneath, the old ones were made by a German company in Hamburg. Hope all this helps, and if you use the seat fastener set up, make another couple of new 20mm long m6 studs to screw in the tank bushes, if you can get the old ones out that is. I have just had to drill the studs out of the brass bush on both sides of a tank to be able to use it again, because the sleeve nuts were seized solid and the bush was just turning in the tank recess when I tried to move it, but not loose enough to pull out at all. So I drilled the studs out, picked out all of the old thread left inside them, and ran a m6 tap back down the bushes to clean the thread up again and screwed 2 new studs in as tight as I could because it still started to turn in the tank again, and used the fasteners pictured to finish the job, and it works and looks perfect, probably better than the later Dzus fasteners lol

On the subject of dzus fastners does anybody know the actual length of Baghira seat dzus's?,i'm guessing 21mm?

I've just started working on my Baghira project again after abandoning it for a couple of years,hence not being on the forum for a while..... (the joys of having too many other bikes & a hectic life!)

[homebrew123]

Hi, I have just looked at the details from Speedy fasteners and they are listed as 28mm long from under the head to the tip.

Cheers.
Jon.

[Zedthou]

Thanks man,i'd quickly measured the receptacle depth on the tank with the seat on & came up with 21mm but i just put the verynears caliper in it again & you're correct,28mm!,i've also previously been on Speedy Fasteners website & couldn't find any reference to the length of Baghira seat dzus's,they've no length stated on their Ebay listing either,i was thinking they were keeping that quiet to prevent folk buying them elsewhere cheaper!,another thing that's puzzling me is why are they selling a set of 3 dzus fasteners on Ebay for a Baghira seat when my Baghira seat only requires 2?,item No 131227071804,£15.99....,i'll be buying 2 x 28mm dzus's off their website @ £2:50 each including VAT....

[homebrew123]

Hi, I never buy them off ebay, I just ring Speedy Fasteners and buy 28mm with no receptacle. And there is normally but not always a Dzus fastener under the rear mudguard that goes through into the seat base, but sometimes this is a threaded hole. Not sure if some were made like that, or some bikes have been changed by owners, but the idea is that you can remove the seat without the need for a screwdriver or spanner.

Cheers.
Jon.

[Zedthou]

Thanks again,i've just been out & inspected the seat & you're on the ball again,there's meant to be another dzus at the rear of the seat,i've also just noticed there's 2 rubber grommets missing from the seat base,i've never inspected the seat base before now,i'm only working on the front end of the bike atm,i've had the fork legs & front wheel powder coated,fitted brand new fork stanchions & spending ages cleaning everything else up,removing sheared bolts,replacing every other bolt,nut & washer etc etc,still got the caliper to strip & rebuild & a remove the headstock bearings for a clean & re-lube,when the front end is finished i'll be whipping the entire rear end apart for the same treatment,nut,bolt & washer rebuild..............

[homebrew123]

Hi, sounds like you doing a thorough job on it, as a matter of interest where did you get the fork stanchions from and how much were they please.
cheers.
Jon.

[breakwellmz]

The one going into the base of my seat through the mudguard got lost a long time ago (not surprisingly really)I drilled out the seat fitting and bonded in a length of M6 stainless studding. This is secured by a knurled M6 stainless hand-with a spring between it and the mudguard underside, works a treat!

[Zedthou]

Hi, sounds like you doing a thorough job on it, as a matter of interest where did you get the fork stanchions from and how much were they please.
cheers.
Jon.

Hi Jon,i found the Marzocchi 45mm stanchions on Ebay way back in March 2015,NOS,i took a gamble & it paid off,both stanchions were still in the factory polythene packaging but on one of the labels somebody had scored out the part Number & written another number above it,however the label on the other stanchion matched the part number for the Baghira stanchions,the seller could not guarantee that the stanchions were both definitly 45mm Magnums but agreed to refund me if i bought them & they were no use to me,i paid £145 + £15 postage & they both turned out to be 45mm Magnums,job done,happy chappy!

Forks now powder coated & rebuilt with new seals & oil,i'm just waiting to get the bottom yoke back & i can start piecing the front end back together,3 of the mudguard bolts sheared off & were too difficult for me to try & remove so it's getting done by a mate with the proper tools for the job.

2 of the front wheel spindle pinch bolts had also sheared off & had to get surgically removed,it would seem that every single fastener on Baghira's is made out of d*ck cheese,before being abandoned & left lying uncovered in a garden for 7 or 8 years the bike had been subjected to a lot of winter riding & the owner had never heard of ACF50 or grease,it's making the strip-down & rebuild a bloody nightmare!

[Zedthou]

The one going into the base of my seat through the mudguard got lost a long time ago (not surprisingly really)I drilled out the seat fitting and bonded in a length of M6 stainless studding. This is secured by a knurled M6 stainless hand-with a spring between it and the mudguard underside, works a treat!

Sounds like a damned good idea,i might do the same myself but use an m6 nylock rather than a knurled thumb nut/hand.

Sorry for the unintentional thread hijack Malcvtr!!