TS250 CARB SETTINGS

[Andy_C]

Looking for some advice / knowledge here.

I took my recently acquired TS250 out for an initial run today, at idle the manual says start 1.5 turns out and then unscrew untill you have the fastest engine speed, I have to set the screw 3.5 turns out for fastest idle - is this something like the right ballpark figure? Pretty sure the airways in the carb are clear, and filter looks to be new.

On the road it seems to run best with the needle at it's lowest setting - weakest mixture, if I raise the needle at all it is way too rich.

Taking the spark plug out after a run, it is very black.

Float is at the right height by the way, wondering if perhaps I shoudl buy a new needle and main jet.

Any thoughts - starts first or second kick by the way.

[DAVID THOMPSON]

that black plug may be caused by old oil and fuel left over in the engine from its past life.
new fuel will wash it loose over time and it well burn cleaner
if still a problem later check for next hotter recommend plug
dave

[Blurredman]

Maybe the main and idle jet are too large... Check with the manual in the link in my sig

[Andy_C]

David / Blurredman.

The bike had been laid up for years, and did indeed smoke like the proverbial train when first started.

I did buy it as a runner and there was a small amount of fuel in the tank, but no idea what oil was mixed with it, after about 5 miles the smoke dissapeared - I am using semi synth smokless oil which I use on my other bikes. I mixed a gallon of fresh petrol and oil before riding it.

All carburettor components match the specifications in the handbook, although I guess that the needle and needle jet could be worn, although the speedometer only shows around 14000 miles, I'll probably replace needle and needle jet.

Air filter looks nearly new and clean and no obstructions in the frame tube.

Worst case it could be the oil seal on the clutch side letting oil through, but if that seal was leaking surley it would be difficult to start.

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[Andy_C]

Puffs - all very good points, you are of course right about the indicated mileage, it may not be right.

Took the carb apart again although the needle looks OK using your suggested way of looking at it, I am going to order:

Standard man jet
Standard pilot jet
Standard needle jet
Standard needle

My old ETZ ran fine on all the standard (workshop manual settings) and the plug colour was just as you described - beautifilly tanned.

Also going to order a new needle clip as it does not seem to hold the needle very well.

If I renew everything that can potentially wear it will give a good starting point.

No signs of leaking seals on the timing side and I am pretty confident that they are OK as the initial smoke cleared after a few miles, although when I next fire it up I will pull the gearbox filler plug out and see if I can hear anythig suspicious.

Despite all of this I am really pleased with the bike - it feels a lot quicker off the mark than my ETZ did.

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[Andy_C]

Agreed - planning to order both the 135 & 130 main and 35 & 30 pilot jets.

That way I can try the factory settings - 135 & 35 and leaner 130 & 30 settings, it certainly does not need to be any richer.

I'll get back with an update some time.