MZ ES 250/1 shifting issues

[grimstone]

Ok,
I'll stick to the 15W40 i have now.
Adjusted the plate and put the 3 screws back on tightly. It seems that the plate stays in place but I have a new behaviour:
The oring is definitivly too slim for the space it is required to fill but it seems it does not leak. everything ok until now but I start the bike on centerstand and in neutral if I put a little throttle on the accelerator i can hear a tic-tic-tic-tic metallic noise which dissapears at higher revs. Same behaviour when I put it in gear abd try to ride. Everytime, in any gear.

Second what I observed and really strange is: With the bike on centerstand and the rear wheel not touching the ground, engine runing, I can take it to 1'st and after that put it in neutral and so on, very easily. but with the bike on her 2 wheels , does not matter if i sit in the saddle or not, it will not go out of first gear. It will only shift if I ride and the bike is moving. And will shift almost normally. The tic-tic-tic-tic metallic sond is there at low revs... It sounds like something is rattling inside but not pinions grinding..... weird.

The dreaded sound appeared after I cleaned everithing ot the red silicone and readjusted that plate. Going out of adjustment with that plate does not get rid of the sound, so if that oring is now free if the red silicone gasket material and is not filling the space anymore can something there rattle?....

It starts to drive me nuts

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[Blurredman]

Make a video!

It could be just clutch basket wear, now that it's had a little bit of use, maybe it is rubbing off any material or rust or whatever that originally kept the bike from changing gear properly in the first place ?

[grimstone]

On the shifting: that sounds like a bit of clutch drag; maybe the clutch is still not perfectly adjusted. Anyway, don't expect perfection, just put it in neutral before coming to stand-still.

On that sound: that sounds more worrying. It can be many things. If it is new after you did something, it is probably caused by that what you did. Are those screws too long?

Yep definitively after I readjusted that plate. I started the engine without that cover and without that plate and is still does it so that plate has nothing to do , but now as I turn the adjusting basked I observe that it catches on something internally, I guess i will have to take the clutch cover off and see what is in there.
The plan is to go and have it MOT and get new plates for the bike (that is no issue here in Ro :, I just have to have brakes and lights working).

[grimstone]

Make a video!

It could be just clutch basket wear, now that it's had a little bit of use, maybe it is rubbing off any material or rust or whatever that originally kept the bike from changing gear properly in the first place ?

Here it is . Please download since it is quite large (dmn new phones)
https://wetransfer.com/downloads/1a1031 ... 542/60b445

[grimstone]

PS:
ftp server does not seem to work

[grimstone]

On the shifting: that sounds like a bit of clutch drag; maybe the clutch is still not perfectly adjusted. Anyway, don't expect perfection, just put it in neutral before coming to stand-still.

On that sound: that sounds more worrying. It can be many things. If it is new after you did something, it is probably caused by that what you did. Are those screws too long?

Yep definitively after I readjusted that plate. I started the engine without that cover and without that plate and is still does it so that plate has nothing to do , but now as I turn the adjusting basked I observe that it catches on something internally, I guess i will have to take the clutch cover off and see what is in there.
The plan is to go and have it MOT and get new plates for the bike (that is no issue here in Ro :, I just have to have brakes and lights working).

Oil too light? Maibe I should use what everyoane use and get a GL80? Now when rotating that adjustment and that is catchnig ..... is raising some questions ... Maibe when the one who worked on the engine did not get the adjusting shims right?

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[grimstone]

I am now reiterating what I have done there and.... I cannot figure out what might have I messed. basicly that 3 screw cap was off, cleaned everything of the red silicone, reset the adjusters to minimum and rotated the adjustment plate and everything back. It must be domething that went off there inside, I just hope it js not insidd the gearcase. Does anyoane kmow how easy is to put back a gearcase for mz? In the manual i find very sparse info.

[grimstone]

OK, I downloaded your video, and while your bike looks nice, that rattle is quite worrying. I do not know what would be causing it. But logic suggests that if it did not do it before, and that it started making that noise after you did someting, it is probably the result of that what you did. Yes, having a look inside seems sensible.

10W/40 might be a bit thin (I currently use 20W/50 mineral in my ETZ), but that should not cause the rattle. Once again, I have no experience with the ES.

Now it is not nice. After a full recrome and paint should look ok

Found some info about the spring that presses the ball on shift indents so it locks in place somethimg there. The spring should be rounded to not make the ball jam. As I remember mine is definitivly not rounded, I guess it was replaced by a generic spring. I will look in the other engine that I have (es175/1) and see if I can source a spring from there. On ddr-mottorad site there is a very goid repair manual that goohke translate makes it englidh readable:

https://ddr-motorrad.de/epages/es177658 ... ranleitung

I could also access that ftp site and I found a good haynes manual (es250/2) there from which I can get some ideas.

I see tgat I would meed a lot if tools to reassemble properly tge engine and hot plate.... I'll see after MOT ...

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[grimstone]

]Hola,
Took the drive chain off today to be able to shift throu gears

So starting the engine cold is has specific sound. An now I can say the the sound comes from cylinder , it is like piston rings rattilng. But that noise is slowly decreased but still there as the engine warms up. And a lot less smoke when the engine is warm. Noise is louder when accelerating and no noise when letting the throttle go and engine revs down. In fact the noise completly dissapears. Crank bearings? Ideas... Do not whant to break something... First time I changed the old 12 year oil in the gearbox the oil was definitivlt contaminated with water.. a little but...

Incorrect carb that is causing ignition trouble....

Spark plug looks like attached

Still i have the question of why with the chain off Gears are very very easyli selected and with chain on and the bike on wheels not.... so much clutch drag????? Yes with the chain off and in first gear when i pull in the clutch that pinion never stops but..... even my 2001 F650GS BMW does that... Now also running on GL80 api gl 4.. No difference fron the other oil..

[Blurredman]

That does look very rich.


As for the rattling, I really cannot comment on that- it's definitely appeared since you adjusted the clutch mechanism?

However: I noticed in your video that the kick starter is too far forward- it doesn't appear you have the rubber stop - (if it has one as standard? it looks like it should) or it has disintegrated. Try seeing if this sound is here whilst you move the kickstarter away from it's stopping place only by an inch or so though... EDIT - I say this, because the sound could be the ratchet mechanism engaging because it's not buffered out where it should be in it's resting position.


As for my FTP, unfortunately modern web browsers no longer are prepared to display FTP listings... This is unfortunate as it means people won't be able to access my FTP unless they are on an older browser, or use dedicated FTP client software (like the old days)..

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[Guesi]

]Hola,
Took the drive chain off today to be able to shift throu gears

So starting the engine cold is has specific sound. An now I can say the the sound comes from cylinder , it is like piston rings rattilng. But that noise is slowly decreased but still there as the engine warms up. And a lot less smoke when the engine is warm. Noise is louder when accelerating and no noise when letting the throttle go and engine revs down. In fact the noise completly dissapears. Crank bearings? Ideas... Do not whant to break something... First time I changed the old 12 year oil in the gearbox the oil was definitivlt contaminated with water.. a little but...

Incorrect carb that is causing ignition trouble....

Spark plug looks like attached

The attachment spark_plu.jpg is no longer available

Still i have the question of why with the chain off Gears are very very easyli selected and with chain on and the bike on wheels not.... so much clutch drag????? Yes with the chain off and in first gear when i pull in the clutch that pinion never stops but..... even my 2001 F650GS BMW does that... Now also running on GL80 api gl 4.. No difference fron the other oil..

Ihn my opinion the thread of your spark plug is far to long . It should look like this one: