MZ ES 250/1 electrical , spark plug, ignition and charging

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[grimstone]

Hmmmm
I will remeasure and test the alternator.
Today I readjusted the breaker gap. It was between . 45 and 0,50 now it is 0,30. One issue here is the the breaker cam wobbles... it does not stay put. It has play from side to side. Maibe fron the centrifugal advance regulating device...

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[grimstone]

Can I replace that with a non centrifugal cam?
I did not find an exact procedure on the advance setting for the centrifugal cam type. Do I have to fully extend the centrifugal mechanism when setting the advance?
Also does anyone know if the original spark plug boot was rezistor type? I bought a metalic type one for MZ ES and it came with 5KOhm rezistor. Did not find if the beru isolator spetzial 14-260 are rezistor type or not plugs.. Does this stuff matter in these non "electronics/computer full" machines other than a rezistor will lower the firing voltage on the electrodes of the spark plug (which is not quite desireable)? Can I use non rezistive plug plus plug cap?

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[Blurredman]

The mechanical advancer, as Guesi and Puffs have said, is just for starting- if you have one, you must set the timing with the weights thrown fully out.


As for the resistence in the cap and spark plug, optimal is 5k ohms, whether that is in either the cap or plug. The thing is though, having 10k really isn't an issue. I remember when one of my cylinders on my cx500 was giving reading of 65k ohms.. Yes it was hard to start, and it was a bit lopey at idle, but it worked. If you really want to you can use a non resistive spark plug (or cap) which ever is cheaper for you to buy I suppose, but there's no issue to not do so.

[grimstone]

OK thx a lot. Do you know if I can convert to non centrifugal ?
On the other engine (ES 175/1) i see that the centrifugal mechanism wa blocked in the off position by someoane .

[grimstone]

I just replaced the carbon brushes and carbon brush plate.
The brushes seems a bit long and fully compress the springs... maybe I will have to cut the spring a bit since it seems that is creating a lot of pressure on the rotor.
Now I have another big question. When I start the engine at idle the charge light goes off but wen I revv the engine the light starts to come on until fully light... Is this normal??? when the light is on voltage at battery level is 7 volt. PS: I use the electronic regulator from ost2rad and per their recommendation I kept the resistor connected.

[dave47]

You say:
"and per their recommendation I kept the resistor connected."
I find that surprising. Normally the big wire wound resistor is removed or disconnected when fitting an electronic voltage regulator. Of course, I don't know what brand of regulator you are using, and have zero knowledge of the ES250/1, but suggest you check the instructions again.

[grimstone]

Hello,
cheked also with ost2rad who sold the electronic regulator and they saied twice in mail the rezistor should not be removed. The curious thing is that in the german instruction say to remove the rezistor and in english they say not to remove or bridge... And in the email not to remove.... weird.
German:
Als ersten Schritt Vorschaltwiderstand in der Zündung entfernen (nicht überbrücken)!

English:

Please do not remove the voltage multiplier in the ignition (not bridge)!

Has anyoane any idea if and why the charge light starts glowing when I revv the engine? Is normal?

[grimstone]

Once again, I never worked on an ES, but I believe there's another member here who has an ES without that advance mechanism. I think you can remove it, and replace it by a later fixed type (don't know which would fit), or fixate it in the fully advanced position.

Yes I remember the book said to fully advance it when setting the ignition. Read the book.

I think that thing was there because with old-fashioned 60's DDR fuel (with a RON of 75 or so) they had to give it a relatively low compression ratio and a large ignition advance. But that caused kick-back during starting, so they made a gizmo that retarded the ignition timing during starting to prevent that.

With a fixed ignition cam & modern fuel, I'd try a more modern ignition advance setting of 2.5-2.7mm bTDC (or rather: ~21°bTDC).

The resistor will not lower the voltage at which the spark will form, but it will attenuate the current during the spark. And by doing so, attenuate the electro-magnetic radiation of that current, which may impact the radio reception for people in the neighbourhood. I'm not sure this was an issue in DDR times, and your ignition system may originally not have any resistor, not in the cap and not in the plug either. But I do not know.

If you choose to use an attenuating resistor, I think you should only use a single one: either in the cap, or in the plug. Not in both.

Do you remember or can find that member??

Of course I will only use rezistor in one place only. But I would prefer to remove entirely

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[Guesi]

Hello,
cheked also with ost2rad who sold the electronic regulator and they saied twice in mail the rezistor should not be removed. The curious thing is that in the german instruction say to remove the rezistor and in english they say not to remove or bridge... And in the email not to remove.... weird.
German:
Als ersten Schritt Vorschaltwiderstand in der Zündung entfernen (nicht überbrücken)!

English:

Please do not remove the voltage multiplier in the ignition (not bridge)!

Has anyoane any idea if and why the charge light starts glowing when I revv the engine? Is normal?

I don´t know what translation program you use, but the german text says:

First step is to remove the resistor on the ignition (do no bridge-over the resistor).

[grimstone]

Hello,
cheked also with ost2rad who sold the electronic regulator and they saied twice in mail the rezistor should not be removed. The curious thing is that in the german instruction say to remove the rezistor and in english they say not to remove or bridge... And in the email not to remove.... weird.
German:
Als ersten Schritt Vorschaltwiderstand in der Zündung entfernen (nicht überbrücken)!

English:

Please do not remove the voltage multiplier in the ignition (not bridge)!

Has anyoane any idea if and why the charge light starts glowing when I revv the engine? Is normal?

I don´t know what translation program you use, but the german text says:

First step is to remove the resistor on the ignition (do no bridge-over the resistor).

Yes I know but they sent some instructions in english and in englsh vesrsion they say do not remove the rezistor. contacted them via email and the same: keep rezistor. in any case (because i tested both) charging light goes off when starting the engine at idle and starts to light again when I revv the engine

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.