New TS125 owner

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[dave47]

I think it's possible you have not noticed that there is a v-shaped groove in the carb body and a matching feature on the inside of the airslide. If they don't line up the airslide won't descend, hence full throttle.

[Jay Bee]

Andy -
From memory (albeit now somewhat shaky), on your bike the only way it will tick over - hand off twistgrip - is with cable tension or adjustment. In other words, you must physically hold the throttle slightly open or you can adjust the cable at the carb. to achieve this. A drawback of this is that the engine speed will probably increase/decrease when you turn the bars left or right. You may have to settle for some sort of compromise here, or learn to ride "catching" the throttle before the engine stalls when slowing down.
Don't even think about changing the carb. If you can't sort out the carb. you have (on which the bike has run satisfactorily in the recent past) you will be even further at sea with the unknown quantity of a carb. which was never originally intended for your bike.
Start again by completely slackening the cable adjustment and verifying that the slide will return fully to its seat. Also check that you haven't dislodged the needle when replacing the slide into the carb. body, and that the cable nipple is correctly fully seated in the slide.
Let us know what you find.
Tamworth ? I remember going to TwoGates to collect a new Reliant from the factory.........

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[AndyP66]

Part 2:

MZ_TS125-150-1983-Official_Service_Manual, part 2.zip

and part 3:

MZ_TS125-150-1983-Official_Service_Manual, part 3.zip

Thank you. Hoping I will get time this weekend to have a look as the weather looks bad so not doing a WW2 event

[Gerryman Ts125]

I still have a Haynes manual (bought for engine/clutch rebuild of my blue Ts 150), and it`s pretty much just like the pdf`s on here. And I have taken a couple of Ts 125`s/ Ts 150 to bits. for me and and other Mz owners, even managed to put it back together again with the original handbook I got when I purchased it in 1986 (wrote off my black 86 one in December 86 and had to reframe it, bloody sleepy taxi driver). But alas, like most of my Ts 125`s and Ts 150, it faded away in a cellar (well the handbook did) as it was in a bit of a damp puddle in the corner even though it was in a plastic bag.

[AndyP66]

Firstly thank you all for the advice and help everyone.

Finally managed to have a day free to spend on the TS. After soaking the old throttle cable in gear oil I refitted it to the bike. Removed the needle etc and gave it all a clean. The bit that was throwing me out was the locating of the cup that holds the needle. The drawings say a groove on the outside but found it on the inside of the cup. Once located and cable attached the needle moved smoothly.
So I now have a running TS. Managed a quick ride round the streets this afternoon.

[Blurredman]

Congratulations

[Gerryman Ts125]

Hope also had a look at your choke cable too, well once everything was apart. As they have a habit of sticking (well all my ones did) so a little bit of oil or grease (to both the cable ends) will see you proud for ages. Until one of the ends comes loose from the lever end. Or the choke slide.

[AndyP66]

Are there any other MZ parts suppliers in the U.K.
After a gasket for the float bowl on my carb as it’s leaking fuel. Spoke to Phil at the MZ shop and he is out of stock and can’t get any for a good while.

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[Throwley]

Silicone swells up and turns to a sticky jelly with fuel. I'd be worried about blocked jets...

What I have done in the past when gaskets weren't available (they're fiddly little buggers to make well) is to lap the float bowl nicely flat with wet&dry taped to a glass plate and use a v. thin smear of blue Hylomar on the joint.

[Blurredman]

Yes, gaskets can be easily made for these. And as Puffs says- gaskets aren't even needed (unless you tip over/drop the bike I guess) providing the float height is set correctly that the valve works as it should.

Last time I ordered gaskets for such small things I bought many, but they're all for the BVF 30N class carburettors unfortunately.
I'd advise not to buy the rubberised type that you see advertised. I have used one in the past and the gasket swelled and stretched after a few months, and although re-usable, it was difficult tro try to get all the corners in between the metal surfaces before screwing the bowl on fully... I much rather prefer the paper type! So long as they don't tear (and even if they do, horizontally), they're very re-usable.

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.