New TS125 owner

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[AndyP66]

Found a 22N2 listed on eBay, it is a used one and needs stripping and cleaning so I have passed it on to the mechanic to buy and service. Hoping it’s a start in the right direction.

[AndyP66]

I believe he has brought it. It is stamped BVF on the casing.

Well let’s see if he resolves it as it’s all at his cost now not mine.

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[AndyP66]

Well it’s been a good while since I shared my issues with the TS125.
So the mechanic fitted the 22N2 carb and it’s running much better than when the 24N was fitted. Starts first time and ticks over lovely. Have taken it for about 20 min ride around the block and it rides ok. But once I get back and it’s warmed up fully the tick over is iritic and will stall. Once it stalls I can’t get it to start again.
I am not at the point that I am now thinking of getting rid of it even if it means a loss. Can’t say my MZ experience has been great.

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[Blurredman]

I'm not entirely certain that a kick start bike that hasn't already been primed of fuel should start first time. And given that it does, and then runs okay but then runs rough when warm, It could be a possibility it is running too rich...

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[AndyP66]

Hi all

Haven’t posted for a while, mainly down to me walking away from the TS out of frustration. I keep saying to myself, it can’t be that hard to get the bike running. I have toyed with selling the bike as it us and cutting my loses, but the bike is meant to be a project for myself and my young son. He doesn’t want me to sell it so I am now stuck between a rock and a hard place.
So the update is this, I had the mechanic back out after complaint to him about the bike not being fixed. He came out, all be it reluctantly. Spent five minutes trying to start the bike looked at the points and said they need changing as the bike wouldn’t start at all. Then he left.
I have now changed the points and condenser, and I am back to square one. Bike will start first kick with no choke???? The bike sounds as though it’s ticking over ok. But once it’s warm it will cut out. In 1st/2nd it will run fine. But in 3rd it has no power what so ever. Not sure if it’s fuel starvation or flooding with too much fuel. I have tried adjusting the air mix as per the manual. The needle is at its lowest setting on the float.
Any ideas. I can’t afford to get another mechanic out and don’t want to buy any more parts until I know 100% what it is.

[Gerryman Ts125]

Strangely, when I first purchased my Ts 125 from new, it leaked fuel from the float bowl. Over the years I would have liked to cure this i`ll. But since it was only a dribble (worse when on the sidestard though) It did also leak when I drove it, and yet again, but it did clean the top of the gearbox, as it also leaked gearbox oil from the sprocket drive.

Mz carbs on their 2t`s mostly leak. Even tried to stop the leak by using a bit of gasket paper. although it became much worse, and ran like a bag of nails.

So I took the float bowl off and rubbed it smooth along some emery paper, on a old side window of one of my many Fiat unos. This did cure the leak, it did run a slight bit better. Mz did make good carbs, but like most parts, could do with some modernizing (my friend did fit a Japanese muniki carb on his) and he jetted it, so I ran great, tickover was fantastic, his torque increased.

Its one of those Each to their own type things.

[Blurredman]

It is really a pity no one on this forum lives close to you.

I've forgotten, this bike had a new aftermarket replacement carburettor installed because somehow the original was broken?

We all know the pattern replacement carbs for these bikes and many besides are utter crap, and aftermarket jets can also be a problem. My only advice (and I'm sure it has been said before) is try to repair the old carb (epoxy on the flang that was broken? - worth the couple of quid JB weld costs to buy) or find an original replacement or an aftermarket replacement that is not cheap crap.

Your mechanic is an idiot- and he's just hoping you will just disapear due to his own ineptitude. Either you do so and fix it yourself, starting with the above, or take him to court.

As for the contact breaker. It either makes a connection or it doesn't, and that's not necessarily something that can be gleamed by just looking at it without his presription glasses on. Also, you can have some funny looking contact breaker surfaces- but it will still run, and most of the time well too.

[Gerryman Ts125]

All my Mz Ts 125/150's I never bought a dial gauge or Tdc gauge. As I took the cylinder head off measured three Mm down (after turning the piston from Tdc) set the contacts to their setting of .6.. And it worked, every time. Carbs can be a pain in the eye to set up. Unless as Blurred says ' They are the carb for that model/engine.'

[AndyP66]

Evening all

Haven’t posted for a good while, as haven’t really looked at the TS125 all winter. So I have changed the points and done a little fine adjustment on the carb and the bike is now starting up ok and seems to be ticking over really well. At low speeds she runs ok but haven’t had chance yet to give her a long run in 3rd and 4th gears.
The reason being she now has a flat front tyre. Can’t find any nails , screws etc in the tyre but the tyre will not blow up. So could be the valve or the tyrant on the rim properly.
Silly question but is the wheel fitted with an inner tub or tubeless tyre. Silly question number 2. How easy is it to remove the front well. Looks like disconnect the brake cable, remove r the bolt that has a bar from the well to the top of the forks then undo the not and remove the spindle.

[Gerryman Ts125]

Yes, removal as you say. Is remove brake torque bar from fork leg then remove pinch bolt from the lower leg under the spindle then remove spindle with a long thin screwdriver or short bar spinner rod. The wheel and brake units should slip out fine (If your alloy centre stand is worn) sit the centre stand on a large bit of anything. As long as it's at least I5 cm or six inches. This Will give you enough height to remove the front wheel, attend to your puncture ( back or front) and dip the whole wheel or tube in a water container... And the tube and tyre (and rim tape) can be investigated for wear or holes, nails etc