ETZ steering lock

[Jay Bee]

I'm hoping someone on here can help me with using the steering lock on my 1986 ETZ 125.
I have what I believe is the OE lock as it uses the same key as for the lock in the r/h battery cover. (The key itself is simply marked "BAB".)
I can insert the lock into the lug on the frame steering head, and by turning and pushing on the key can get it to lock - a bolt extension engages with the upper yoke/triple clamp.
Unfortunately this is the limit of its usability, as when I unlock the whole thing falls out of the frame lug.....
Am I missing something here ?

[Blurredman]

Hi,

The steering lock doesn't work by inserting the key and then twisting and taking the key out. What you need to do is insert the key, turn it, then push the whole assembly (key and all) upwards into the yoke, you must then twist the key in the reverse direction and then you can pull the key out. All the lock does (by use of the key) is spin a tang inside the steel tubing (which has a sort of H pattern to it) to be able to move it up into the yoke (to then twist it again and lock the whole assembly), or indeed to pull it out altogether.

However, it is a seperate key to that of the side panel- the steering lock key is a lot longer and has more neck in order to be able to adjust the height of the barrel.


EDIT: I've actually been working a bit on this tonight as it happens with my ES cylinder that had the key stuck in it. It is slightly different, but the principle is exactly the same- except on the ES model in order to remove the steering lock you seem to HAVE to remove the whole cylinder. There's no lockable portion on the ES (and maybe TS?) that you can lock the cylinder into position without it engaging with the steering system.

Anyway, as you can see- the key itself can only be inserted, or removed one way (when the turning cylinder tang and the base tang are on 90 degrees axis from eachother). Once inserted the key can be spun and that spins the lockable cylinder allowing you to align the tangs to the same axis and move the whole unit inside the bike to engage (or disengage (where the lock stays on the bike but isn't engaged into..)) the steering system, or indeed remove the lock entirely. Once you have locked it into either position you can take the key out.

For the ETZ, with the lock flush with the steel tube end, you need to turn the key anti-clockwise and push the whole assembly upwards into the yoke (handlebars need to be turned to the right) where you can then twist and therefore lock- you can then take the key out after twisting key clockwise again to engage the tang.



I hope this helps?

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[dave47]

In my opinion its best not to rely on it. Thieves broke my ETZ steering lock just by twisting the handlebars. Fortunately they were disturbed and dropped the bike and ran. I regarded it as a lesson, and have used an external lock instead on all my MZs ever since.
EDIT:
They didn't bother mastering the ignition key, just pulled out the cable. It isn't too hard to figure out which wires to connect, so these ignition switches are very easy to bypass.

[Blurredman]

As with the above, although thankfully none of my bikes have been stolen or from what I can tell even attempted to be stolen whilst in my ownership, my ETZ250 does NOT have a lock in the steering column, mainly because it's evident that it has been stolen in the past. The tube that holds the lock is twisted and deformed and the top yoke recess where the lock would go into when engaged, the aluminium is cracked.

I think some of the problem with steering locks is the fact that they all seem to have too much play within the locked engagement.. that play allows the thief to rock the handlebars and use them as leverage to break the lock if they can...


As for the ignition lock, a pair of needlenose pliers works perfectly fine as a key if they happen to have one on them (and there are no other locks engaged on the bike). What's more, doing so doesn't damage the bike, and you don't even need to keep the pliers inserted- so on the face of it to anyone watching the thief riding away, it might look innocent enough..

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[dave47]

Puffs, You could probably fit a new lock - but please don't. You might be tempted to use it.
BM, Yes, mine was also deformed in that way. I took the opportunity to remove it all when I was painting the frame.

I once started my MZ quite easily with the end of a teaspoon borrowed from a cafe.

[Jay Bee]

Thank you for your response, Blurredman.
I wasn't aware that the keys for the steering lock and toolbox cover were two different lengths - thanks for that. (As it happens, the key I was using (the only key I have) was/is the steering lock one......)
I was attempting to use the lock with exactly the m.o. you described. ("by turning and pushing on the key can get it to lock - a bolt extension engages with the upper yoke/triple clamp." - in my original post).
It seems the reason the whole lock dropped out when unlocking was due to a number of factors.
The lock key cylinder was rather dry and sticky and was reluctant to release the key when unlocking, and there was probably also rust in the frame lug :- so jiggling and turning the key to unlock caused the whole thing to fall out of the frame lug. Also the spring was less than half the correct length.
I've cleaned the inside of the frame lug as best I can, and lubed / freed off the key cylinder and lock assembly, slathered the whole thing with grease and re-fitted with a new spring.
It now works as it should.
The next question is : where can I obtain a key blank, so I can get a spare cut ?
Thanks again for your help.