MZ/MuZ Riders

Hello everyone, I am new to your site and wanted to ask if I may please for some advise. We recently got a TS 125 for my sister in law to do her CBT on and use for work but are having some problems getting it running right. It ticks over fine and runs ok at lower rpms but once out on the road after it warms up a bit it starts to lose power and misfire, this gets worse until it conks out. It will restart straight away but won't pick up and cuts in and out. If you leave it to cool right down it then runs fine again till its warmed up and the process is repeated. We have replaced the points as one of them had a hole right through it and also the condenser. It has also had a new plug and plug cap and these changes have improved things to some extent as it will now do about 55 mph for a short period until the above problem kicks in. The bike does not seem to have been looked after by the previous owner so I guess there are many things to check. It seems to be charging ok and I should also mention it has had a new battery 2 weeks ago. I wondered if it might be the coil breaking down under load or maybe its not getting enough fuel at higher rpm's? Is there anyway of checking/testing the coil to see if its the problem?
The bike will run all day at tickover/low revs as my sister in law has used it in the garden to practise for her CBT this just seems to happen at higher Rpm's once warmed up.
The other problem is it seems to jump out of top gear when riding along, its not everytime but more often than not. Is this something worn out in the gearbox or me not putting it firmly enough in when changing up I wonder.
I would be very grateful for any advise you may be able to give please as I don't know if these are well known problems with this model and I'm not to sure where to start.
Many thanks for your Help
Regards
Geoff

hi my ts 125 does the same thing only it doesnt conk out ,just as u say as it warms up it starts to misfire as the revs rise . i cleaned the carb,checked the timing and set the points gap it seemed a little better but still a misfire . one thing is it seems better in top gear for some reason dont know why ,i suppose it could be the coil or adjustable regulator ...sorry for rambling on as i can not help but hopefully an mz brain will help us . does your start easy and run spot on at low revs as mine does .

regards bob.

spring in points may be weak if there old or new old stock
had a problem once with a r75/5 bmw ran great below 3000 rpm
put in 3 sets of new old stock points problem did not go away
put in after market electronic system ran fine
wrote it off to weak springs as condenser was new fresh stock
and the system still used the original coils
dave

Hello , Thankyou both for your replys, the problem with the engine appears to be fixed now, I put a new coil on it and took it for a 20 mile run and it didn't misfire or anything so that seems to have been the culprit. However the gearbox problem has got worse, it is now jumping out of first gear into neutral and out of 4th gear into 3rd gear and it does this most of the time. I just wonder if anyone might have an idea whats going on please? I think I will have to pull it apart and see if I can see if anything is wrong but not really sure what I'm looking for as have never stripped a gearbox before I will keep you updated if I find anything
Many thanks again
Geoff

Hi,
I posted a link to some official MZ workshop video's a while back. They cover complete assembly of an ETZ engine. They might have some relevance to a TS125 not sure but worth a look.
Have you also tried the mz riders yahoo group for advice?

David.

Hi,

Great bike the TS125. Glad your misfire is sorted.

Re the gearbox problem. You may be lucky and avoid a complete strip. Yo will need to split the crankcases to get to the gear cluster with all that entails - virtually a complete rebuild.......

But YOU CAN adjust the selector fork shaft without an engine out job. You would have to remove the left hand cover after draining the gearbox oil and then you might be able to access the selector fork shaft adjustment lock nut( it is held with a bent over washer and is located underneath the kick start quadrant.

You need to access the other end of the shaft, which is underneath the right hand inner cover ( the one that carries the clutch worm drive). There is a whole in the crankcase half that enables you to use a screw driver on it (once you have loosened the nut on the other end previously mentioned). If you are in luck you should be able to give forth gear a more possible lock by moving the selector shaft slightly to the right of the bike. But it is only fair to warn you that the teeth on 4th gear are "under cut" at an angle so you stay in gear - if the gearwheel is worn it is unlikey that adjustment of the selector will sort it out - do not want to lead you up the garden path!

Having said that, if you have to replace gearbox components you will have to strip all the covers I have mentioned and much more besides, so its up to you.

Whatever you decide, GOOD LUCK!

Adrian

thanks for advice think mine is just sulky cos somedays it runs spot on,other days its lumpy as a pig... bob