MZ/MuZ Riders

I have a TS250/1 Supa 5 which I am currently refurbishing, standard 6 volt with points ignition etc.

Currently not running but while the engine is being sorted I have attempted to resolve some electrical issues which were inherited from the former keeper and which are probably related, namely:

1. When the key is turned to the first position (ignition on) the front o/s indicator illuminates solidly, the other three with just a trickle enough to barely light the filament in each lamp, the indicator switch on the handlebars is in the off position and moving it to both left and right operating positions makes no difference at all, not even the slightest attempt at 'flashing'?

2. When the above happens (ignition on), the brake light also illuminates constantly, operating the pedal making no difference. Strangely though, if I disconnect the brake light wire from the connector block underneath the seat when the front/rearlooms join together, and leave it in mid air, the brake light works fine, just as it should when the pedal is depressed.

I have changed the connector block, cleaned each earth terminal, battery was in a fully charged state (when I began) all but to no avail. All other lighting functions appear to be working correctly!

Not being an electrical guru thought perhaps someone may have an opinion or two - please!!!!!!

Andy

disconnect flasher relay,,if problem disappears,, try different relay , i problem persists,,change lamps and fix all earths.everywhere.

i second the above posts

and the sound of it its bad grounds or your battery is below rated volts

or the real horror is some one got a wire connected wrong

review the proper wiring drawing against how its wired

bike wiring sucks ...it sucks big time when a mister know it all rewires some thing

when it gets old its seen its share of ham fisted know it alls
dave

Tonights jobs then!

Battery was fully charged at onset of investigations, wiring does all appear good but I will disconnect each item both pos & neg in turn, clean and refit!

I did consider as a temp measure running a seperate earth directly from the battery to the front headlight earth point as an extra check - we we see.

I'll report back!

sent you the wiring diagram yesterday

Further progress - of a sort.

Many earth connections cleaned, re made etc to no avail then more strange stuff.

Lights, indicators etc all now working ok but brake light now illuminated constantly except if I disconnect this wire from the connector block beneath the seat (see image) It also (the wire when disconnected) gets quite warm to touch with the ignition switched on, in fact almost hot?

Its a black double wire spade connector, one wire from what appears to be the coil, the other from the part of the loom wich connects to the generator area.

Had to pack up now but any thoughts as obviously I need the brake light working but why would that cable cause it to stay on and more importantly why is it getting hot?

check the tail lamp socket my rt125 one had all the wires fall out

?? coil shorted out or the wire shorted to ground
some times it cam be very confusing
dave

look for problems with high beam low beam switch ( main key switch 15/51 to 49 to 56a and b some thing is drawing current may be a headlamp bulb that to high power
it hard to analyze when you have never seen one of the bikes

that wire your showing in the picture i think goes to rear tail lamp run lamp

thats a very nice drawing but i do not read german very well but after about 55 years i am getting better at it
dave

this post is a bit tacky but its been edited several times

Tail lamp dismantled, reassembled & all contacts cleaned and made good - still no brake light?

Coil wiring checked, all seems ok, disconnected coil completely - still no brake light?

All other lighting functions ok, headlamp side/dip/main beam and flash, rear tail lamp & back and front indicators flashing ok too - just no brake light?

Its that black disconnected two wire connector on the image I'm pretty sure is key to it...............somehow?

From what i can see on the wiring diagram the brake light switch just ground to earth when made,,i also suspect you have to reconnect that two black wire to the corresponding black wire,,if you think it could short out or overheat,,connect that two black wire to a little blade fuse and the the other end of the blade fuse to the junction ,if anything out of order the fuse will blow first,,

You are quite correct Den, the black two wire spade connector does need reattaching to the underseat connector block - but when I do the l/h indicator lights brightly/solidly re the original problem I encountered, pull it from the connector block as per the image and all is well apart from the brake light? More investigations soon................................

so you got feedback problem , often caused by diods going wrong , maplins will sell you a 1 amp diode,,just place it inbetween the black wire connector were talking about,,try it both ways because its directional,,is there diodes in the loom i wonder?, ill look ,

just looked,,couldnt see any,,also try this,,take the "indicator lamp on" indicator out the clock??,,see what happens..somwhere you got a live going through a negative circuit,

Just a thought, maybe the ignition switch in the headlight could be faulty, temp replaced the wire from the coil (black wire) to underseat connector block and from headlight connector to underseat connector block (black wire) so bypassing the main loom - still gets warm/hot on that terminal?

So, after much head scratching I may have found the problem but ask you for your advise?

It would appear the connector block underneath the seat (visible in the photo) is not the correct one, probably from a ETZ or similar I would imagine - removed this and temp connected all things as they should be on the wiring diagram, bad earths rectified and all seems ok (fingers tightly crossed). So, the questions:

1. Are there different connector blocks TS/ETZ etc and is mine the wrong one? Maybe different part numbers?

2. If so, then I would need a correct one so if anyone has one available to sell I would be very very grateful?

Andy

Bit of an update, opened up said connector block and reconfigured each terminal to 'straight through' positions from what was originally inside - all seems good now!

Schoolboy error - never assume just because its fitted (and looks like it had been for quite a while) thats its correct - lesson learned!

andy288 wrote:Bit of an update, opened up said connector block and reconfigured each terminal to 'straight through' positions from what was originally inside - all seems good now!

Schoolboy error - never assume just because its fitted (and looks like it had been for quite a while) thats its correct - lesson learned!

I was about to say, the connector blocks aren't all straight through, some are forked to include quad connections to them (in the case with indicators).

Good on ya!