MZ/MuZ Riders

Hi Folks,

just spent hours replacing the rear chain case, both gaitors and the chain.. what a frustrating process to get the chain in and then fitting the connecting link at the front sprocket.
Can anyone tell me the best procedure for fitting a new chain please?
After going through that job, I lost a lot of my goodwill for the MZ design, I have a honda c90 with a fully enclosed chain, changing it takes 10 minutes.
Thought I was going to keep this bike but that job changed my mind.

Hi alexxx

You take off generator/sprocket cover, separate the chain, with your new chain located at the front of the engine link it onto the old chain at the top, then slowly pull through guiding the new chain, link up the two half's.

Easy when you know how.

As above.. Link end of new chain to split pin of old chain, feed new chain in whilst pulling on old chain, take out split pin connecting chains and reconnect two ends of new chain. Obviously the bike needs to be in neutral and on centre stand, where the rear wheel can be free to rotate.


Considering you might have to change the chain maybe once in 5 years, probably even longer, given most people's mileage on MZ's is pretty damn leisurely, it's something you may not even have to do again... I imagine, that if an average chain life for a bike with an open chain is around 20k miles, that an MZ could do 40k..

alexxx wrote:Thought I was going to keep this bike but that job changed my mind.

Alexx.
Think twice before you get rid - I had a 301 for a short while and regret getting shot of it.

Had to replace the gaiters on mine a while back - job is so much easier if you heat the ends in boiling water before attempting to fit them onto the chain guard and engine cases.

I left the chain on the rear sprocket and slid the new gaiters over the chain, and when I fitted the second gaiter I fed a piece of stiff wire through the gaiter and looped it through the hole in the link which made it easy to pull the chain back through the gaiter.

Also replaced the chain once in the way that Blurrdman explained.

Agree that these jobs can be frustrating but these little bikes pay you back with loads of fun and the chains do not wear out that often

Thanks all for the good advice.
The job was made harder as I had to replace the hub cover, gaitors and chain so no chain to hook onto.
There is very little room for error as only a few inches of chain shows...and fitting the split link...what a nightmare, barely enough room between chain and case and you need to have the chain on the front sprocket to keep it together for fitting the link.
I am still very disappointed with the design, the protection is excellent but maintainance...I thought it would have been simpler, I have no idea how to check the chain tension, tempted to do away with the chaincase/gaitor system and just fit a top chain guard, easy to change parts and check the tension.

Cheers all

Up to you, but ironically the last eight words of your comment will ensure more frequent necessity of maintenance and adjustment.
Swings and roundabouts - I get sick on both, but some lov'em.

alexxx wrote:......I have no idea how to check the chain tension, tempted to do away with the chaincase/gaitor system.......

Alexx - Chain tension is easy to adjust, put bike on centre stand and adjust the chain so that with 2 fiinger pressure applied to the mid point between rear wheel and gearbox sprocket of the upper chain gaitor you can press it down onto the swing arm - thats it.

Pretty sure that is how "the book" says to do it, and that is how mine is done.

Personally I would keep the gaitors as it keeps the chain so well protected so lasts longer - I did contemplate getting rid of them mine, but I reckon the gaitors actually suit the bike.

Cheers.

Thank you all,

The chain check sounds quite easy then, will do that today.
The miles I would do I should never have to change it for many years yet.
Thanks again for all the advice

Hi Alex,
Other than all the things that have previously been said, to thread the chain through the gaiters I use one meter or so of white net curtain wire with a hook screwed into one end and opened up a little to just hook over the chain roller. works a treat. To be fair though to get the inner edge of the top gaiter onto the engine area on the Saxon Tour301 was a bit of a bugger.
Take care Alan.