OKO carb for ETZ251

[alexxx]

Hi Folks,

I am considering to fit an OKO carb (Taiwan made)
Seems to be a popular replacement for a lot of bikes, has anyone here tried one?
I contacted the company and they suggested a 28mm carb for the ETZ251 but I am concerned that it would not fit over the carb mounting spigot, is that 30mm OD (or just under) to match the current BVF?

Here is the US website
http://www.usa-oko.com/

[dirtsurfer]

I haven't tried one. Is the price similar to Mikuni?

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[Blurredman]

Interestingly,

It does seem apparent that in previous original articles about the MZ's, it looks like they used a "packing" as the original documentation says, in the inlet. They don't mention what type of 'packing' and why it should be installed. I've never used this item and i've got on fine..

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[dirtsurfer]

Many years ago , some bikes had a thin fibre bush for packing.

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[dirtsurfer]

.......see below as an example for an alternative I drove a couple of years with (+ shortened inlet skirt).

RV ETZ, top.jpg

RV ETZ, carb side.jpg

That rubber packing really looks like a piece of re-purposed radiator hose and is that a reed valve in the second picture? and Intriguingly use of 8 screws to hold in place!

[Andy_C]

I can imagine one would use something like this:

plastic bush.png

or thinner, but on mine it is (and as far as I can see, has always been with this manifold) just metal on metal, with a good fit.

The original manifold has an M6 bolt on either side to clamp the carb's spigot, but the thick alu will not allow for much movement. So the fit will have to be good & hard, if you want to use that original manifold. But of course you don't have to, see below as an example for an alternative I drove a couple of years with (+ shortened inlet skirt).

RV ETZ, top.jpg

RV ETZ, carb side.jpg

Puffs.

So you grafted a reed valve onto the bike - yes?

Can you give us some details - what did the reed valve come from, what changes were made to the porting etc?

Just curious.

Thanks.

[Puffs]

Following a moderator choice that is IMO biased and flawed (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[Andy_C]

Puffs,

Thanks for that - I was just curious.

[dirtsurfer]

Yeah, so? Radiator hose comes in exactly the right size, is resistant to petrol, reinforced, and very strong. Pray tell: what would you use for the flush spigot of the stock BVF?...

I would use a high quality product like this one from my local bmw supplier

The reeds didn't come from any other bike, I made them for this reed valve, from aramide & epoxy. I made the entire thing, except for the re-purposed radiator hose and the 8 screws, those were made by someone else. I used it for some 4 years.

well done

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[alexxx]

Thanks folks for all the advice and help.
I think I will try one of these carbs as a cheap alternative to a Mikuni.
I have been looking for a used but good Bing to try but no luck
I am basically trying to get rid of the terrible surging on the over run and erratic tick over.
The surging is so bad that on long downhills I have to pull in the clutch.

[Andy_C]

Alexxx - before spalshing out on a new carb are ypu 100% sure that the existing (BVF) carb is free from any obstructions, and that your timiing is set correctly ?

When I first had my ETZ is used to buck and stutter and was very unpleasant on the overrun, it is pretty good these days. I spent a lot of time fiddling with carb settings - mine has a BVF and it is happiest with 2.5 turns out on the airscrew, and 4 turns out on the bypass screw.

Finally, do you have any leaks in the exhaust system ? Mine used to have a small leak where the silencer joined the downpipe and that had a huge effect on surging - a small leak and it would surge like mad.

Just a few thoughts, whatever you decide to do, good luck.