MZ/MuZ Riders

Hello,
Voltage stabilized at voltmeter.

Charge light is better now : it is completly off at idle but when I revv the engine it starts to glow a little bit not at full intensity as it did without rezistor. It also seems weird to me that only a rezistor changed something semnificativ but... Anyway I am still not very convinced that the charge light should glow a little. I can confirm that when I turn on the flashers the charge light flashes. The flashers must also have a issue, or the flash relay, since they take a while to light after I switch on flashing.... I think I really need to get myself a new wiring harness to eliminate all possible mishaps did before on the bike.

So ,
at idle the voltage is 6.2 and the charge light goes off
when I revv the engine voltage increases but also the charge light starts to glow a little.

PS:
Changed today the condenser and the ignition coil. What a story:
Bike had a huge ignition coil , i suppose from a Trabant car (6v also) so I decided to go with the original small ignition coil (to fit as many orig-like parts as possible) and changed the conmdenser with a brand new one. In this setup with new coil bike just does not start, it seems that the spark is very weak (breaker points gap is 0,3 spark plug beru isolator 14-260 gap is 0,6). Changed back to Trabant coil and kept the new condenser, after unflooding bike starts. Even changed the spark plug cap with a non rezistor one on the new ignition coil and not even a "puff" of smoke.

It starts to drive me crazy.

Another test with the little type ign coil from the ES175 engine which is the same dimension as the new one. Starts right up. I guess I have a ign coil made of chinesium.... damn.

I once bought a new 'mz' coil that you can get on-line. I sent it back because, although the bike would initially start okay, after just 1 mile or so the bike ignition would cut in and out constantly and it would be impossible to ride. I was replacing the old coil because that also broke down afer 10 miles of riding (overheated coil) so I used a spare original mz coil that I had instead. Although I was prepared to buy PVL or Lucas miniature coil to use. But the spare original was good.

blurredman: crappy chinese parts. I spoke at the store I bought it and they did not even wanted it back. They will give me same value discount on next order. I will do a current ramp test to compare with the goid MZ coil and the trabi coil and I'll post. Indeed ign coils tested on the bench, cold could seem ok but fail when they are heated during operation....

Puffs: you are very right and when the time comes( after full paint job and reconditioning who is comming very soon) I'll go for the 12V VAPE. Now I just struggle like this until I fit the mikuni carb and get the bike MOT.

I tested both coils. Both on primary at current ramp test draw about 2.4 Amps but at secondary, testing with a spark tester the maximum distance between electrodes of the one that does not start the bike is 0,4-0,5 and for the one that starts the bike is 3,5 mm... so I think I can conclude that secondary winding on the new chinesium coils is bad.

I will look for other brands of ignition coils that can fit. Beru original is extremely expensive.

Now that I "solved" the issues with the ign coil and the patient is still in emergency room I measured the advance timing I currently have and it is 2,6 mm before TDC. Now I use only premium gasoline in all my engines and that is not a thing I will change. Book says for the es250/1 3,3 mm before TDC. I read on the master info source, aka google, that using higher octane fuel with the same advance as lower octane fuel will cause knocks because the higher octane fuel burns slower but more complete. I have now knocks... of course . So I Thing of starting my advance timing at 3,5 even 4 mm before TDC.
Any opinions?

Yep I'll try that but now the patient needs some sort of woodruff key between alternator and ignition cam. A lot of crazy people seemed to work on this bike and that hey is completly missing, the slot in the alternator rotor has some welds.... weird. I will have to grab a dremel and reform those slots and fit a key there between can and alternator so it keeps the position.
I searched but did not find anything here regarding the retrofit of another cam from a different model of MZ. One from The etz seems a fixed cam type but... if anyone has some info ..... please submit. In the mean time I will go with the es175/1 stator/rotor pair I have.

Exchanged the roto/stator assembly and installed also the es175 cam. It does not fit, the timming is wayyy offf. Spark is generated when tge piston is almost starting to come up.
As I researched it seems that all cams are compatible from es 150,250,300 but not the one from the 175.... More work tommorrow.